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I own a 1999 Dodge Durango, V8 Mag. After taking the...

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Question by Shari Davis
Submitted on 8/22/2003
Related FAQ: rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 1/6
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I own a 1999 Dodge Durango, V8 Mag. After taking the vehicle to the dealership for a tune up and oil change at approximately 71,000 miles we have had nothing but trouble. They said the timing was off and fixed it, did the oil change and changed the serpentine belt. The durango has had regular oil changes and maintenance. We left for New York and when we arrive the oil gauge went down and the check engine light came on. We immediately checked and found no oil on the dip stick. It had also begun tinging upon acceleration. We put oil in it and check it all the way back home. Took it back to the dealership and they told us it had sucked the intake manifold gasket in. My husband changed the gasket, he is a mechanic (heavy duty earth moving equipment). We put all new spark plug wires and plugs and distributor on. Now we have a miss in the engine that can't be found. This is where the problem really began...We took it to a licensed shop they ran the codes, check it out and said the computer needed an update, gave us printed information and said a dealer would have to do it, he check the injectors, plugs, wires and everything is good. Paid him $58.00 Took it to the dealership told them and gave them the printout from other shop. Said ok they will fix it. Called us stating that they had run the codes and that the update would not fix the problem, no time to check anything further, charged me $39.00 to do what? I have now paid two shops and know nothing more than when I took it in. When running the air condition the miss seem to be less noticeable. HELP HELP! Thanks. Shari Davis

Answer by Durango no more
Submitted on 9/15/2003
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I just unloaded my 99 model Durango. Practically gave it away to get rid of it. At 79,000 miles it started to fall apart. Brake computer ( CAB ) went. 462.00 Did not fix problem. Sensors on front hubs changed - still not fixed 267.00. Dealer can't understand codes. 4 wheel drive transfer case making loud metal to metal clang coming out of first gear. Rust developing under all window moldings. Valves pinging even on premium gas. Averages 2 quarts oil a month. I've changed oil every 5000 miles and used premium synthetic oil. I also just unloaded my 98 Dodge Ram 4 wheel drive ext. cab truck. Using oil and valves pinging. Now own Toyota 4 Runner and Toyota Tundra. VERY VERY happy with both products.

Answer by red227
Submitted on 11/17/2003
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I bought my Durango after the lease was up last month, and it is now falling apart too! The oil pressure gage kept going to 0 and back to normal after a few minutes, then it started knocking like someone was banging a hammer on the block. Towed it to the dealer and they said I need a new engine. It only has 50,130 miles on it! I've done all scheduled oil changes either myself, or taken it to a Valvoline oil change place when pressed for time, and the dealer tells me that the engine failure is due to lack of maintenance! They want to charge me $5,500 to replace the engine! An independent shop I trust looked up the parts and labor and said it shouldn't be more then $3000. I have found numerous other complaints with the same exact problem and the same response from other dealers online but I am in search of information of any class action law suites against Chrysler for this problem.

Answer by Sara
Submitted on 3/15/2004
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I bought a 99 durango in december. The first day my check engine light came on. But turns out it was just a plug. The next day my brakes started to squeak. The dealership says nothing is wrong but to this day they squeak. My steering wheel makes a grinding nose and the mechanic also said nothing is wrong, but it still grinds. My biggest concern is the ball joints. The thought that I could fly off the road is a little scary. One person wrote that they couldn't do it for any less than 400. So far i'mbeing told over $800.00. I think its crazy that there has not been a recall. This is a very dangerous issue. There is over 700 reported ball joint incidents just in durango. That could have been 700 deaths!!! How many more peoples lives will be put in danger until someone makes the recall?

Answer by Murf
Submitted on 3/19/2004
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For BigNick - We have a 99 Durango and suddenly one day we had no "Overdrive" gear, only the lower gearing was functional and the "Check Engine" light was on. Initially we took it to our mechanic, not a dealership, and he referred us to a transmission specialist. After dropping the tranny and performing other diagnostics he concluded it was the "computer". We took it to the dealership and confirmed it needs replacement. Expected cost $700, and it is out of warranty. For those of you who have heard of the ball joint issue. We just returned from our Dodge dealership here in Wichita, KS and they have inspected the ball joints and advise they need to be replaced. They advised they will be replacing them at NO COST TO US, as they understand a recall is coming down on this. You may want to check with dealers in your area.

Answer by Ken
Submitted on 4/5/2004
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Saw this in regards to the recall. http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2004/03/03/eveningnews/main603833.shtml I have a 1998 Durango 5.2 L. Only issues that I have had is that the Dealership let me know that the ball joints were bad around 50k - 60k miles. I am at 106K and am getting a little nervous about wheels falling off. Other issues that I have had or having is with a bearing in the rear that produced a loud "whirring" noise (fixed, $800) and I am starting to get that engine "missing" issue. Also, saw on here of someone that was getting some noise backing up. I had a noise from the rear differential, could easily hear it spinning when backing up and got the rear diff fluid changed and the dealership pumped in an additive into the rear diff. Overall I am happy with the Durango that I have. Hopefully the recall for the ball joints comes soon as no ball joints on any consumer vehicle should be deemed bad as early as 50k miles.

Answer by 99 Durango Oil consumption answer
Submitted on 4/6/2004
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Engine - Spark Knock/Oil Consumption NUMBER: 09-05-00 GROUP: Engine DATE: Feb.25, 2000 MODELS: 1994 - 1999 (AB) Ram Van 1994 - 1999 (AN) Dakota 1994 - 1999 (BRIBE) Ram Truck 1998 - 1999 (DN) Durango 1994 - 1998 (ZJ) Grand Cherokee 1996 - 1998 (ZG) Grand Cherokee THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 09-06-99, DATED SEP.10, 1999, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION AND NO ASTERISKS HAVE BEEN USED TO HIGHLIGHT REVISIONS. SUBJECT: Spark Knock And Engine Oil Consumption Due To Intake Manifold Pan Gasket Oil Leak OVER VIEW: This bulletin involves the replacement of the engine intake manifold plenum pan gasket. NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A 3.9L, 5.2L. OR 5.9L GASOLINE ENGINE. SYMPTOM/CONDITION: An engine intake manifold plenum pan gasket oil leak may occur on some V-6 and V-8 style engines. The oil leak is internal to the engine so no external oil leakage will be present. Two symptoms of this oil leak condition may be present. The vehicle operator may experience an engine spark knock during acceleration and/or an increase in the amount of engine oil consumed by the engine. DIAGNOSIS: Make sure Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 18-48-98 has been performed. NOTE: IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE COIL AND SPARK PLUG WIRES ARE ROUTED EXACTLY AS SPECIFIED IN TSB 18-48-98 TO ACHIEVE THE MOST BENEFIT. Inspect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Shake the PCV valve to verify that the pintle inside of the PCV valve is free. Replace the PVC if the pintle is not free. If the intake manifold plenum pan gasket is leaking, an additional vacuum source will be created inside of the engine at the location of the pan gasket leakage. Engine combustion blow-by gases, oil vapor, and air from the crankcase filter/breather may be drawn past the leaking pan gasket and into the intake manifold. In most cases when this condition occurs, an engine at idle will create the highest vacuum and lowest amount of engine blow-by. 1. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature. 2. Stop the engine. 3. Disconnect the breather hose from the air cleaner. 4. Attach a vacuum/pressure gauge to the end of the breather hose (Figure 1). 5. Disconnect the PCV valve hose from the intake manifold. 6. Seal off the intake manifold PCV valve hose port opening. 7. Seal off the open end of the PCV valve hose (Figure 2). NOTE: DURING THIS DIAGNOSIS, IT WOULD BE NORMAL FOR THE ENGINE TO DEVELOP PRESSURE WITHIN THE ENGINE CRANKCASE. THIS IS DUE TO THE NORMAL PROCESS OF EXHAUST BLOW-BY GASES LEAKING PAST THE ENGINE PISTON RINGS AND ACCUMULATING IN THE ENGINE CRANKCASE. DO NOT ALLOW MORE THAN 3 PSI (20.7 kpa) OF PRESSURE TO BUILD WITHIN THE ENGINE WHEN PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE. 8. Start the warmed engine and observe the vacuum gauge. 9. Allow the engine to idle for approximately 30 seconds. Do not allow more than 3 psi (20.7 kPa) of pressure to develop in the engine crankcase. 10. If the attached vacuum / pressure gauge does not indicate that a vacuum is present in the engine crankcase, then the intake manifold plenum pan gasket is good and no further internal engine vacuum leak diagnosis is required. 11. If an internal vacuum leak is present then perform the Repair Procedure. PARTS REQUIRED: For the 5.2L / 5.9L: 1 04897383AC Package, Intake Manifold Flange Gasket and Bolts 1 05017208AA Gasket, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan 15 06034583 Bolt, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan 1 53030541 Gasket, Throttle Body 2(AR) 04318001 Conditioner, Combustion Chamber For the 3.9L: 1 04897382AC Package, Intake Manifold Flange Gasket and Bolts 1 05017207AA Gasket, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan 14 06034583 Bolt, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan 1 53030541 Gasket, Throttle Body 2(AR)04318001 Conditioner, Combustion Chamber REPAIR PROCEDURE: 1. Refer to the appropriate year Service Manual, Section 9: ENGINE for removal and installation instructions. NOTE: CLEAN ALL OIL RESIDUE FROM THE INTERIOR SURFACES OF THE PLENUM PAN AND THE INTAKE MANIFOLD PLENUM CHAMBER. NOTE: THE PROPER BOLT TORQUE AND TIGHTENING SEQUENCE IS CRITICAL AND MUST BE FOLLOWED WHEN TIGHTENING BOTH THE PLENUM PAN BOLTS AND THE INTAKE MANIFOLD FLANGE BOLTS. 3.9L Bolt Tightening Sequence and Torque Procedure: 3.9 Plenum Pan Bolt Torque Procedure 3.9 Intake Manifold Flange Bolt Torque Procedure 5.2L / 5.9L Plenum Bolt Tightening Sequence and Torque Procedure: 5.2L / 5.9L Plenum Pan Bolt Torque Procedure 5.2L / 5.9L Intake Manifold Flange Bolt Torque Procedure 2. With the engine reassembled, inspect the coil and spark plug wires for proper routing. Refer to TSB 09-48-98 for additional assistance. 3. Start the engine and allow it to warm to normal engine operating temperature. 4. Decarbon the combustion chamber using Mopar Combustion Chamber Conditioner (p/n 04318001) per the instructions. NOTE: ALLOW THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER TO SOAK INSIDE OF THE ENGINE FOR 2 TO 2.5 HOURS. NOTE: A SECOND APPLICATION OF THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER CONDITIONER MAY BE REQUIRED IF THERE WAS A LARGE QUANTITY OF OIL LEAKAGE PAST THE INTAKE PLENUM PAN GASKET. 5. Verify proper engine oil level. POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. Time Allowance FAILURE CODE: P8- New Part

Answer by Dale in Arizona
Submitted on 4/8/2004
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I too own a 99 Durango which I bought used just a few months ago. It has 52,000 miles now. Soon after I bought it, the RPM'swould go up and down while driving down the highway, I first thought that it was a lockup issue with the transmission, it was not. I then found this condition to occur during slower speeds as well. I have had the computer reflashed, seemed to be ok for a while, but it came right back. So I ignored it. Then I started noticing a belt whine noise. Now, at idle, the RPM'swill drop, there will be a screaching noise from the pully area and the engine will die. BUT...it will re-start again immediately. I have no oil lose. When the RPM'sdrop and the noise comes, I can see the belt tensioner move back and forth. Pullys appear to be free. Any ideas? I still love my Durango.

Answer by John
Submitted on 4/13/2004
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Bought my 99 Durango brand new. Have had no complaints till now. One month left in my 5yr lease, and I'm having ball joint noises, and check engine light came on while driving on freeway. Noticed loss of power, and very rough idle. Decided to tune up. Last spark plug on pass. side is fowled worse than others. I've been replacing anti-freeze about a gallon every 3000 miles. Afraid problem may be blown head gasket. As I search the internet in disbelief that my beloved Durango could have such problems w/ only 53000 miles on it, I see that others have had similar problems. With only one month left on my lease, I thinks I'm going to get stuck footing the bill on this lemon. Can't give it back in this condition, and I'm certainly not going to keep it after seeing all the problems reported w/ these trucks. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Answer by TheDude NYC
Submitted on 4/16/2004
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I own a 2000 Durango SLT Plus. Overall the car was fine while under warranty. I did factory maintenance most of the time. I had some tire wear and some flats that caused me to get new tires over time. I hear a squeek from the front end during cold weather and then a clunk during hard turns. I took the car in for brakes to a Manhattan Dealer and they called me to say "you need a new master cylinder". So i approved that at $565 and asked them to check the lower control arm body mount bushings as they looked "smooshed" and "prematurely deteriorated" like a 30 year old car. They call me back saying that I need 4 new ball joints and two new lower control arm body bushings. I had no choice but to pay the $1200 bucks for that repair as I just traveled 1200 miles from FL to NY with my pregnant wife. The car will drive smooth and no shakes at 80 MPH. SO be careful, the squeek and the clunk and the tire wear are the key to determining if your Durango has bad ball joints. According to the CBS news report, the model uses TRW manufactured BJ and they wear out prematurely. If you have a warranty, go into the dealer and say "squeeking", and "tire wear" and "clunking sound" from the front of the truck. Verify that they type that into the service report. Hold them accountable... dont accept the car unless you ask them in writing to check the ball joints.

Answer by martyrayray
Submitted on 4/22/2004
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I own a 99 Durango, got it about 4 months ago, now has 78k miles on it. I am an automotive tech w/12yrs experience and knew about the intake problem. Most trans problems are a result of no maintenance to it. If all of you people would read your owner's manual and follow its recommendations instead of just changing your oil your Durango would last a lot longer. Now that that is out of the way, let me tell you my Durango nightmare. I just went on a 1400 mile trip from Louisville, KY to Philadelphia, PA and back. The next morning my wife was driving down the road and the rear axle snapped. Did not hit pot hole or anything like that, The wheel is still bolted to hub with no damage to rim or tire. I have yet to understand what could have caused this. Also, I have not yet found any other person that has had this problem. LOOKING FOR ANSWERS!! WILL REPAIR & STILL LOVE MY DURANGO!!!

Answer by Joe Maloukis
Submitted on 4/24/2004
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Purchased a '99 Durango new. It did fine for 104,000 miles, but then started dropping oil pressure out of the blue. Normal to zero. Luckily it did no damage the first few times it happened. I had a new oil pump put on, the engine flushed and oil changed. Also had the return flow screen changed out. Did fine for a couple of months, then started the same song and dance. Not so lucky next time. I now am the not-so-proud owner of a $20,000 yard ornament I still owe about $5,000 on. Dodge, of course, refuses to acknlowledge that there is a problem with their 5.2L engine. I am not going to drop another DEFECTIVE 5.2L V8 in the Durango. Instead, I've decided to burn it on a big bonfire and broadcast the event LIVE on the web. I'm in the process of doing a popularity study to see if I would have enough support ($) to pull this off. Check out batcity.com/bonfire .

Answer by RIta
Submitted on 5/2/2004
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I Have a 99 Durango also. At 80,000 miles valves started rattling. Thought it was gas grade but unfortunately not. For a few weeks it smoked when I first cranked it up. I drove it up the mountain one day the engine light came on. Cranked it up the next morning. MAN OH MAN !! The smoke just kept on coming out. Read all comments on here and my husband figured it was the plenum pan gasket on the intake manifold. Took it off... Yep! there it was, a big 1" long gap in the gasket. It was sucking oil right in there. People oil isn't suppose to be in there!!! Replaced the gasket.. Doing great no smoking, no valves pinging. Just smoooooth riding in my big gas guzzling "BIG AZZ SUV" If this happens to you check it out quick. Don't wait to long before something really messes up.. Didn't take my husband but 1 day to fix it. Had to order gaskets that took 2 days to get here.. If you are not mechanically inclined DO NOT PERFORM THIS SURGERY YOURSELF GO to a certified machanic...or dealership... I have always loved my Durango and always will..

Answer by JohnnyFlare
Submitted on 5/11/2004
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Dodge "GOD DURN" RANGO oil sludge / carbon build up problems. Great invention ...Bilstein 2000 engine flushing machine. Unscrew the oil filter ...plug in a hose that back flushes the engine. Sends a heated oil cleaning solution backwards down the oil pump to the pickup screen under 40 pounds of pressure! Designed to clean out sludge build up. All the while a vacuum sucks the sludge out of the oil drain plug. It worked!!!... for 5 minutes. Pressure came back then dropped to zero again. It sounded like a good idea at the time (only $129) Had it done at a GM dealership. Dodge doesn't offer this service. At least the engine should be cleaner when I change the oil pump. Has anyone else tried this?

Answer by Gecko Adventures
Submitted on 5/17/2004
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WOW!! I started up my 1999 Dodger Ram 1500 this morning. To my surprise, white smoke started pouring out the exhaust. I assumed it was a blown head gasket or cracked head. I hopped on line to reassure that my diagnosis was correct and stumble across this site. I bought my my truck used with 25K miles. It's was a dream until I hit 75K. Since I've owned it, it has sucked up the oil. I didn't know about the PLENUM gasket. Luckily my engine is apart and will the gasket will get replaced. I change my oil every 3000 miles and was suprised at the amount of sludge build up inside the engine. Now I understand why my oil pressure was dropping to zero periodically. This started last about a year ago. I flushed the engine and haven't had the problem since. Another issue I was having ended up being the speed sensor. When I got down to about 1/4 of a tank of gas, the transmission wouldn't shift out of second. I connected my diagnostic tester it showed a speed sensor error. Tomorrow I'm putting on new heads, plenum gasket, lifters, push rod and rocker arms. In addition, I will flush the engine to remove the sludge. I'll post the performance results. All in all, my big black Dodge Ram has been a great vehicle.

Answer by Just paid off and pist....
Submitted on 5/26/2004
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I just made the last payment on my 1999 Durango SLT 5.9. I had a new trans put in at 24K, intake manifold gasket issue shortly thereafter and this was under warranty. It did take some fighting on the trans but they covered it. All has been well until today. The dealership informed me that the ball sockets needed replacing at 57K, which is unheard of and there is some sort of radiator leak which will require most of the front end of the car to be removed. They did say they anticipate the recall on the ball sockets soon, but did not offer to not charge me. They said I would have to pay for it and then if the recall came out, Dodge would refund me any costs I incur. How long can you go on bad ball sockets? I'd like to wait, but I don't want to cause any safety issues. My mechanic told me the radiator issue that I am experiencing is rare and he hasn't seen much of it and I haven't seen a mention of it here as I have about the trans, gasket and ball socket issues. The great debate is do I dump it now and spend the money on a down payment for a new car or do I have faith and sink the cash into this and keep driving?? Any advice is welcome!!!

Answer by Damon in OK
Submitted on 6/13/2004
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This is for dj the mechanic. I have had a Honda for 10 years and I have put less money in it (including preventive maintenance than I have put in a 99 dodge caravan that I owned for two years, and a 99 durango that I owned for two years. The honda has three times the amount of miles that the two dodges had together. I have also had the engine blow on my durango, the ball joints replaced (the dealer wouldn't let us go home they were so bad), the fuel tank and pump replaced, and today it started not shifting into overdrive. I have had to put at least $1000 out of my own pocket, and the warrantee company has had to put at least $2000 into it and it just now has 80K miles on it. Won't buy another Dodge. It may cost more to repair a foreign car, but if you don't have to do it, then it doesn't.

Answer by Paul P.
Submitted on 6/15/2004
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Just bought a 1998 Durango 4WD SLT from a friend who told me it needed work. I also had problems with #2 and #4 cylinder (passenger side front two) The plugs kept going bad. I removed the heads and found two burned exhaust valves destroyed (no compression) I bought new valves and had the heads magnafluxed which exposed two small cracks in the same area. I also noticed oil residue (varnish) on the inside of the engine which may have caused the valves to stick and overheat. I replaced the heads, plenum gasket (recomended) and will flush the engine once it is re-assembled. Valves $12.00 - $15.00 ea., gasket kit $90.00 (check rockauto.com), Head job $380.00. Do the work yourself and save a couple thousand. You can also pick up a rebuilt long block from rockauto.com for $1400.00. This should not happen to a vehicle with 80K miles unless it was abused, or there are in fact factory defects. Anyone else have cracks in their heads :) ?

Answer by adodgegirl
Submitted on 6/27/2004
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We are in the process of tearing the engine apart ourselves. Just with the amount of people on this website writing about issues with the Durango engine EVERYONE should file a class action suit and get our vehicals paid out right and get something that works. I have the same problem first water pump leaking then overheating midline 225 degrees and then the spead sensor went out and the check engine light came on and the diagnostics said hi voltage and then for about 2 weeks the thing ran awesome and now nothing. I lost totall compression and the truck died completely. Will not even turn over and spark. It turns over but no start. And when it did start would not stay in idle.

Answer by Chuck G
Submitted on 6/30/2004
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To Krystal G -- Look up above a few messages (6/7/2004) and you'll see I was having the same issue you were. After 4 mechanics (including the 5-star Dodge dealer -- totally worthless!!) and about $1000 (replacing sensors, ignition coil, wanting to replace computer, told had low transmission fluid (that was the 5-start Dodge dealer), etc.), I decided it was getting too expensive, and since no one had a clue as to why it was happening, I decided to call it quits and put my cash towards another vehicle (2004 Ford Expedition XLT, certified, 5300 mi -- I needed something I could pull with, or would have gotten an Explorer instead). If you ever do determine what was causing "our" problem, please post what it was -- I'd be extremely interested in learning why it was happening. Good luck!!!!!!

Answer by JackM
Submitted on 7/5/2004
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Krystal G and trish j and Chuck G - Two weeks ago for first time on 5 years we have owned vehicle my 1999 Durango shut down randomly and with no warning while driving at speeds ranging from ca. 30 mph to 60 mph. Started right up when I pulled over to side of road. It also fluctuated RPM'swhile driving from ca. 2000 rpm'sdown to 1500 rpm'sand back while coasting, but I am not sure this is related. Dealer could not reproduce stall, but did change intake gasket, which helped low speed idling roughness. Engine shut off while driving home so my problem remains. I have searched the Internet for clues to problem and while this problem has been noted, I have not seen a solution posted anywhere. It seems as if it should be something simple, although not necessarily cheap, given the unique nature of the problem.

Answer by noahtomt@netscape.net
Submitted on 8/31/2004
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I own a 99 Durango and until recently was very satisfied with vehicle. Six weeks ago we had an over heating problem. I took to dealership in San Juan Capistrano, Barwick Automotive and they said I needed new water pump and flush radiator. $1,600.00 later Durango fixed, and five weeks later same problem occured, so I took to dealer they explain that engine was full of rust in cooling jackets and they quoted another $1,800.00 to fix problem, I reluctantly oked ' what else could I do? I picked up two days later only to get within a mile of home and the engine made a loud noise and fail at a stop light. I had vehicle towed to dealer. they pronounce the engine DOA!! history!!! now they are performing a complete rebuild at an additional cost of an additional $500,00 total cost thus far $4,900.00. I am also hearing a clanging noise form under vehicle, suspect, after reading other engine problems on this sight, and that ball joints are bad. I am going back to dealer today and demand they fix vehicle at no charge. I will not stand for dishonesty!! I will sue anyone care to join me e-mail me @ noahtomt@netscape.net There are too many good honest working people whom have put their trust in Chrysler to produce a safe reliable vehicle and the Durango is not one of them, they need to own up to it and make it right!!! I spent $36,000.00 of hard earn money to purchase my Durango and expected to have at least 10 yrs without major problems. I have own Toyata'sbefore and never experienced problems like this. I believe if enough people write to Chrysler about these problems we may get some reaction, if not we need to call 60 min and ask for an investigation. Thomas "Seeker of Truth"

Answer by Davey
Submitted on 9/19/2004
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I own a 98 Durango, 5.2 Liter - I bought it used at around the 18 month old mark. Now that it has exceeded 60k and I am a reasonable person I expect to start seeing things that need replacing if I want to continue running the truck at a performance close to when I bought it. If I didn't want the fuss I would lease vehicles as opposed to buying them and running them for several years. Same way I expected the factory installed battery to go out after 2 years, much the same way it did on a used Pathfinder I bought around the 18 month mark too. I saw somebody on this thread say they were concerned about buying a used Durango with around 60k on the clock. My advice would be expect things to wear out around this point on a Durango or any other vehicle that wasn't over 50k to buy new. This is the state of the car industry, not a Durango, which is why I have friends that only lease and always stay in a relatively new vehicle. If you buy a used Durango, all the postings I've seen to date on the Internet are pretty accurate so pay attention to them and watch for the problems, speed sensor going bad, electric window motors going out, cheap oil resulting in what seems like a mysterious loss of oil - I've personally experienced all this - speaking generally, if an engine check light comes on and you keep driving the vehicle what is you are expecting to achieve? - last time I checked the science journals vehicles weren't self healing. I am proud of my 4x4 Durango. Done me proud in the Rockies and carrying friends around on snowboarding excursions. And I dont remain ignorant of whats under the hood of any vehicle if I want to run it past 60k miles. If I want a no fuss vehicle I'll get into leasing and always have payments.

Answer by vinsanity
Submitted on 10/3/2004
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I own a 99 durango slt 5.2 4wd. I had the same problem with no oil pressure but I immediately thought oil pump.After dropping the oil pan I saw the screen on the pickup tube just packed with sludge. The screen is kinda small for a v8 but I went to certified mopar parts dealer and paid 174.00 in parts.Thats oil pump,pan gasket,and a new pick up tube.Just out of curiosity I told a mechanic about it at a dodge dealership he said engine too...for 5000.It cost me 174.00 and 3 afternoons of my time to fix it. At 93,000 now runs great.Durangos use oil and is normal.Mine uses about a quart a month no smoke no oily plugs.Also my manual states that you only should burn 87 octane fuel or engine damage will result.I have been in situations where mechanics will cause problems to make more money.I have taken my dodge to mechanics too see what they say.I already knew what the problem was and I would get these amazing stories on how I wouldnt make it out of the parking lot when its something simple. Be wary of your mechanic and if you are inclined buy a haynes book and familiarize yourself with your vehicle. Mine has been a good friend.

Answer by ScReWd79
Submitted on 10/6/2004
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Hi ALL! I just bought a used 1998 Durango SLT, with 117,000 mi. on it.. It didn't come with any warranty, of course, neither did it come with a manual or any service records.. Kinda scarry. Anyways, after seeing this sight, I'm scarred outta my wits about driving it!! Also, on the way home from buying it, AntiFreeze fumes started wafting out of the vents!! They don't call me "screwd" for nuthin, I guess. took it to the local Chrysler dealership, and apparently it's the heater core.. parts are pretty cheap for it, and we have a family friend who will do the work for free.. phew!! I am REALLY hoping that my dur. doesn't develop the sludge-producing problem that so many other people are having. I'm half-tempted to list it in my local auto trader magazine and just pay it off before I develop a potential money trap from which I'll never escape! -any advice would be GREATLY appreciated! THANX!

Answer by Schurick
Submitted on 10/20/2004
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We have a 99 Durango SLT 4x4 with now roughly 105K miles on it. When we originally bought it (used), took it to an extended warranty company. They checked it all out and said it was a great buy. After about 20000 miles of having it we had to replace the lower balljoints. A year later than it suddenly started dying on us, "NO BUS" appeared in the odometer, also ABS light stayed on. Dealership said they can't reproduce incident, so no fix. One day it died right in front of the dealership ;P. They told us it was the computer, under mfg warranty for 100k miles, so they fixed it no charge, they also replaced the brake control module. My extended warranty company didn't charge me anything and even paid for my car rental. Since then we have had the water pump changed twice, about 13 months/15k miles apart, so dealership warranty had just run out... Also I have had a hole in the radiator and one day it would start but died unless I held foot on the gas at 1k RPM or more. Comes out, it was the battery. Cleaned the contacts and got it running, NTB replaced battery under warranty. Funny thing, this is my 3rd battery in 3 years, something keeps draining it but noone knows what. Killed 2 Die Hard Golds and now have an Exide. Now I have a new problem, don't know whats going on. The other day it started idling rough.. Figured its the plugs. Have not had a chance to change them yet tho. But now, when I am driving, all of a sudden, its like the truck has no power, I press on the gas but instead of picking up speed it starts surging. Then, just like by magic the symptom goes away and things go back to normal. This has started happening more often, on a 50 mile trip it happened 3 times. Doesn't seem to matter of speed. All gauges read normal, all fluids are good, no shavings or "milk" in oil or ATF, have plenty of coolant. What could it be? Help! A mechanic told me its the fuel filter, according to dealership, it is in the tank in the pump and they will replace the whole tank, not just the filter or the pump. Lazy bums is what I say. Also, when its surging, I hear a metallic clicking noise, seems to come from the axles, inside it sounds like right next to my 4wd shifter. Also, another problem, the truck is shifting funny. Sometimes it will get up to 3500 RPM before it shifts out of first gear, at other times it shifts fine. According to dealership, nothing is wrong. They said its normal behavior. But it did not use to do it, don't tell me its normal.. I know my vehicle. My extended warranty company I have been very happy with. I used autoexam, paid like 2500 for my warranty and got over 10K work done. I am very happy. Never ever buy a warranty from the dealership. My grandmother got one on her Cadillac Catera from the dealerhsip... She has had a whole lot of problems and only 1 thing covered under warranty. Dealership went as far as saying- quote "if we break anything while working on your car, you have to pay for it" WHAT?!?!?!? you break it and I buy it? why not just torch the vehicle and charge me for the new parts/car?

Answer by FastFreddie
Submitted on 11/27/2004
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1999 Dodge Durango since new 105,000 miles: Just replaced speed sensor, first time in 2003 by dealer for $145. This time, I bought the part for about $45 and took 30 minutes to install. My amateur procedure for changing the speed sensor for those who don't know is: 1. Disconnect Car Battery... 2. Remove Spare tire. 3. Jack rear car up, not enough to raise rear tires, but enough to give you more access to rear differential... 4. Speed sensor is on top of Rear differential. One bolt to remove cables, one larger bolt underneath to remove actual speed sensor. 5. Remove wiring from speed sensor. Remove metal bracket from old speed sensor and replace on new speed sensor. 6. Reverse order to install... 7. Car will drive strange for first mile or two while computer resets itself...be patient, and don't drive too fast until car up shifts...stop every block or so, until car shifts normally... I also replaced the water pump at about 75k miles...passenger power window operates intermittently (ghost). I like this SUV, heavy and secure...I'll keep my fingers crossed...It's held up pretty well, especially the body and interior,... we treat the Durango as a heavy use family vehicle, so it doesn't get washed often and interior looks good when I clean it (leather). The paint looks really good for not being washed often. I did replace the Transmission fluid/drive recently, just for the heck of it... Lastly, the car drives worse when I change the air filter :) Good Luck all

Answer by james
Submitted on 11/29/2004
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i dont have the answer yet, but my 99 4x4 durango slt has been having similar problems to the above. While on a road trip, i hear a clicking by my gas peddal when i increased rpm's. shorly after, my fog lights went out and my check engine light came one at the EXACT same time. i couldnt figure out how they were connected, because they were not. Seat switches and fog light switches are known to blow in these trucks. but the problem was the speed sensor. i bought it for 15 dollars, put it in in 5 minutes, and the problem went away. before i replaced it, my truck would not shift out of first gear with low fuel levels. another problem is a shaking and stops. seems to be a vacuum leak, so i will check my intake gaskets. recently, my cruise controll has stopped working and i think it might be related to the problem witht he speed sensor, but i will find out soon. the last problem is the suspension. i havent has any unusual wear and tear, but i am a bit worried about my ball joints. i will post my findings as soon as possible, and if you have been experiencing any of these problems, it is important that you make them known, because otherwise, us durango loves will be sucked into bottomless pits. james

Answer by gina
Submitted on 12/8/2004
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I have a 99 durango and thought I was so very lucky for quite some time. Mine had 133k Miles on it and I had only the oil pump problem (which Lucas oil stabilizer $5-8 saved my truck---use it every oil change and it eats the sludge right out of the engine). In the last 1k miles, my front brake calipers have broken all the bolts that brace them into place, my water pump went out I thought (turns out to be a coolant leak somewhere---I can hear it when I park the truck, it spits and sizzles), My windows won't roll down on the drivers side, My front driver side lock actuator barks whenever I lock or unlock the truck with the remote, I checked my tires and their down to wires on the inside but have basically full tread on the outsides....She has been a wonderful truck for years---badmouthed everyone that badmouthed a dodge for years---now look what I have got. There's a site for a big class action in the works. go to (below)and enter your claim (https://www.lawyersandsettlements.com/case/daimler2) maybe we can get it rolling a little bit faster than it is now, My truck is gonna break me---Chrysler can at least help out!

Answer by Shelly
Submitted on 12/13/2004
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I had a 2001 R/T 5.9 Durango. In April (2004) it started on fire in a parking lot. It had 77K miles and had been in for it's regular oil change (every 3K) 12 days earlier. State Farm's inspector said it was a Bad fitting on the Power Steering Fluid Transfer pump on the left underside that sprayed power steering fluid on the hot engine and caused the fire. The truck was totaled and so far Chrysler has told me it is not their fault. I have been reading all kinds of sites and saw the same problem on a PT Cruiser. Anyone ever heard of this? We also have a 98 Durango & although the ball joints have been replaced once I think it needs them again. I am interested in filing a class action suit as well. Write me shelly@careersources.com.

Answer by AMS
Submitted on 12/27/2004
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Last year we bought a 1999 Dodge Durango, what a nightmare it is. Last week our oil pressure gauge dropped to zero. No noise with it and the vehicle didn't even over heat. Two days later oil pressure went to zero and it died. Had it towed to a mechanic and found out it needs a new engine. No surprise now reading all I have about them. Mine is not the gaskets it's the oil sludge. With these vehicles it doesn't matter if you are doing an oil change every time it's scheduled for one. Ours were done every 3000 miles and our vehicle has less then 34000 miles on it. I have read so many other people with the same vehicle having the same problems. They really need to recall these engines but they won't.

Answer by SD Mike
Submitted on 1/2/2005
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99 Durango 2 cylinders with bad valves - #s 2 & 8. {Aren't these the cylinders that miss fire with the stock spark plug routing?} Dealer tells me that the cause is not using champion plugs {Do all Dodge dealers think owners are idiots?} Local machine shops charge less the $150 for valve job & clean up for 2 heads. I bought my own ball joints and had a local shop install them for under $200 total. I'll never go back to local dodge dealer. 4 star means their mechanics are either stupid or crooks. Tail gate is rusting as is the front bumper. 4 ball joints replaced 5 electric windows replaced Now have burned valves Dealer didn't do plug wire correction or any other covered repairs. I've got five Dodge vehicles. After this Durango no more dodges!

Answer by Cella
Submitted on 1/3/2005
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Me and my fiance brought a 1999 Dodge Durango in September. It had around 97,000 miles on it about two weeks later the starter went bad so we called the dealership and they sent someone to tow it. The dealership took care of the problem, about a week later my car wouldn't start AGAIN so I did the same thing I did before... called to the dealership and they came to tow it again. Come to find out they said it was a something was loosen on the starter. It recently snowed here and all of a sudden I'm driving on the interstate and I hear a loud noise sounding like a very loud gun shot and I didn't know what it was. I waited until I got off the interstate to see if something was wrong with my truck and there was coolant(antifreeze) leaking every where. So I got some worker's from my job to look at it because they're lube techs and they know about cars and they told me it was my water pump. I'm just hoping I don't have all these problems with this truck because I dislike taking my truck to the dealership.......

Answer by Wanda Scott
Submitted on 1/4/2005
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well just to let you guys know, Durango seems to be a nightmare that you never wake up from. I happen to own a Dodge Dakota 5.9 RT and it has also had some of the same problems you have had. It cost me 34,000 ran real good for about 75,000km and than the trouble started....ball joints(replaced 3 times and the last time they wouldn't even let it out of the shop due to the fact that the two front wheels were about to fall off, that cost me in total$4000, engine missing, transmission now a problem, air conditioning, engine light keeps coming on and when I take it back no one seems to know what the problem is, the dealship let it run for a couple of hours and said because the light was off, they could see no problem....well now I have decided to take my losses and stop putting money into a dead horse and get a new vehicle...and not a Dodge/Chrysler product....All the frustration has turned me right away from them.

Answer by kerricknet
Submitted on 1/20/2005
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Responding to PaulP. We have a 99 Durango SLT V8 Mag. It has @80,000 miles on it. It's my wife's primary vehicle. I drove it about a month ago, was heading up a large hill, near home. It started knocking, but no panel lights came on. I pulled over and checked the oil. The dip stick was to the top with coolant/oil mixed. I immediately drove it to our mechanic. Both heads were cracked and the intake gasket was shot. Mechanic was informed that this is very common for this make/model. As I have discovered on web pages such as this. The radiator also needed to be replaced. There was a previous patched leak that had been flushed out with the flushing of the engine. Now, it is sitting at the garage until we can come up with $2800 or more. Inspection is now due. Let's hope it passes. We will definitely keep a close watch on the oil sludging problem and hopefully avoid another major repair.

Answer by d0c
Submitted on 2/18/2005
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98 Dak 5.9 R/T, 75k miles. I'm the original owner. I had the B/J prob. since day 1 w/ a front end vibration felt thru the steering wheel starting @ 78 mph increasing in amplitude w/ increase in speed up to 95 mph. I haven't dared to go any faster as the vibration at 95 is rather frightening. Dealer said there was nothing wrong on 5+ different occasions (they refused to test drive it faster than 75 mph claiming liability issues!) so, I've been forced to live with it. At 50k miles it developed a VERY loud clunking sound from the mid LHS of the vehicle when ever entering a sloped driveway at an angle. I'm 99% positive is coming from a loose chassis cross-member rivet on the LHS near the FWD leaf spring mount. Dealer said it was not covered by the extended warranty, because they could not fix it... i.e. I was told to take it to a body shop and have it fixed on my own dime. Also had the ABS/brake warning light issue intermittently since 60k miles (warranty expired). Now, the mother-load of problems showed its ugly head last night: As I was pulling into my garage after a ~=10 mile drive, I heard a grinding sound from the engine compartment, i did a quick scan of the gages, all were in normal operating ranges. As I opened the door, I got a whiff of the telltale smell of antifreeze. Popped the hood, and noticed the coolant reserve was dry! After Powering down the engine I noticed a trail of water on the ground that marked the path I had just traveled ending at the growing puddle forming on the garage floor right underneath the engine bay. All this was accompanied by a loud hissing noise, but from the best I could tell/see at the time, was not from the rad hose, return hose, or the rad core. I couldn't see if it was coming from the thermostat housing, or water pump (though thats most likely the case due to the grinding sound) Anyhow, tomorrow I'll start wrenching on it myself as I currently do not have the $500-$1000 that I imagine the dealer would likely sock me with. Class action? Count me in as well!

Answer by The_Glass_Man
Submitted on 2/22/2005
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Hello I have recently purchased a 99 durango so far so good only a small leak in the radiator, at 145000 miles i cant complain if that is all that is wrong with it, I love the power, and the ride, except the hum fromt he trail trated tires, could do without that, also dont care for the fuel milage I get, it kinda sucks... I have read alot of complaints about the durango's here, check to see when it was nuilt what day that is, I was once told by an older gentle man, never buy a car that was made on a Monday, Friday, Or weekend, because the employees get careless, and are not thinking about what they are doing, I have noticed most people that have complaints bout vehicles could most likely determine there care was built on one of these days, I believe mine was built on a wednesday, we will see if I have any better luck... thanks for the heads up on problems though!

Answer by Jim Rogers
Submitted on 4/25/2005
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I have a 98 SLT Dodge Durango. (without warning) It overheats and quits on me while I'm driving. I have to take off radiator cap and pour in cool water just to start it again. even though the radiator is full. I go to turn on the car and the odometor reads ("NO BUS") Car won't start. I have to wiggle the wires for the PCM and the fuse box in the engine just to get it to run. I go through about a gallon and a half of Antifreeze every week but oil and trans. fluid are normal and no signs of leakage any where. I do smell it every now and then. Dodge dealership in Clarksville, Tn can't figure it out . I am in the Army stationed at Fort Campbell I can't afford to keep taking it to dealerships and paying out money when they can't even tell me whats wrong with it. I am really low on funds and can't afford to get rid of it. I could really use some help please..

Answer by JoeMerchant
Submitted on 6/5/2005
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1999 Dodge RAM 5.9L 86K miles Few problems so far - had a seeping leak around the temp sensor that eventually led to replacing it, but nothing major. Just today, my wife was out driving and it apparently barfed out several gallons of engine coolant, from what looks like the front of the water pump. A friend brought 3 gallons of water which didn't quite fill it, but got her home. Funny thing is, it's not leaking any more... I'm planning on replacing the water pump, hoses, thermostat and serpentine belt just as preventative maintenance, but I've never seen anything leak so badly and then stop completely. (yellow splash - more like a wash, really - all over the right side of the engine and bay on the passenger side) Anyone with similar experience?

Answer by J Rogers
Submitted on 6/6/2005
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I bought a used 99 Durango in October of 2004. It had 65,000 miles on it. Started having problems almost immediately. Within a month, the power locks started making this horrible noise whenever locked or unlocked ( the vehicle automatically locks the doors at 15mph, so this noise is startling at times). Within 2 months, the transmission started acting up, not shifting, hesitating, RPM gauge going all the way up. Took the vehicle in to the dealer, was told there was too much transmission fluid. They removed some, charged me $75.00, and sent me on my way. No improvement in the problem, plus now that it was turning cold outside, I discovered the thermostat was bad, so I'm driving with no heat and a bad transmission. Returned to the dealer, ended up with a new ( rebuilt ) transmission and a new thermostat. Luckily I had purchased an extended warranty that covered the tranny. That was January. In February, started having terrible vibration, poor steering. Went in for tire rotation and balance, was told both upper & lower front ball joints were bad, along with the universal joint. We were at 73,000 miles. Changed the u- joint ourselves. Contacted Dodge re: the ball joints, was informed that our vehicle was not included in the recall, since it is a '99. Can't afford to fix the ball joints right now, still driving and praying nothing bad happens. This is our family vehicle. Now, the drivers side power window doesn't work most of the time, it's like it comes off the track, the lock is still bad and just yesterday, I discovered that the tail gate will not open! Not with the key even! It's like the handle is broken or jammed or something. Oh yeah, and the paint is starting to rust below the windows now. ( I keep it garaged when not in use) I fell that this vehicle is CURSED, I have never been so frustrated with a vehicle. If I trade it in, I will most likely loose lots of $$, but I'm not sure what else to do. Any suggestions? Also, we sold a 1998 Dodge Ram right before we bought the Durango, and the Ram had to have a new transmission also, it went bad in 2001, with only 48,000 miles on it. We will NEVER buy a Dodge again!!!!!!

Answer by Mike26mct
Submitted on 7/9/2005
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Krystal, Trish, Chuck,and Jack M,...The answer is,..... Grounds!!!! My Durango did the exact same stuff all of you have listed,.. I too purchased a new computer for 500 bucks and 30 feet away from the dealership,.. poof,... dead.. wait alil while,.. shake around some wires maybe in a lil while i'dget her re-started but then a few miles away it would just die again. I consulted a good Mopar mechanic friend of mine who said he had seen 2 durangos with the same problem and both were fixed by refitting the ground wires just under the a/c pump with new eylets. All the ground points in the engine compartment and fenders need to be checked,.. there really aren't that many and any well funded Dodge dealership should have the equipment and an experienced enough tech to at least check through them. This fixed my problem just as my friend said it would and of course the dealership that sold me wouldn't return my money saying that the bad wiring burnt out my old computer....absolute b/s!! So anyway ,... My friend tells me this problem is now coming up more and more often so keep it in mind k?

Answer by Travis Lee
Submitted on 7/15/2005
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Wow. 1999 4X4 SLT 5.2L w/ 136,000+ miles. Just looking into things because the ball joints finally gave way. 1 owner truck. Used for SoCal towing, mountain snow, & light/moderate off-road trails. Problems: speed & ABS sensors, front left axel replaced due to ripped boot. These trucks will eat tires, drink oil, grind brake rotors to dust, drip from trans seals, tow up long steep grades with the A/C on at speed (318 engines are bullet proof), drop speed while on cruise, and still bring home the groceries with slightly more than the standard maintenance. 135,000 miles in San Diego traffic, and road trips all over the south west US. Please people if everyone was so unhappy with their trucks would Dodge still be in business?

Answer by bbwolf
Submitted on 7/16/2005
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I got my 99 dodge dakota with only 13,000 miles on it and it has always used oil and pinged like mad. Now that its at 60,000 it is sucking it back 1 quart per tank. Seen this forum after searching for any answer on why my engine had masive vacume when i pulled the oil fill off while running. Seen the articles on the Plenum gasket and mine were all the same. So i got a intake gasket kit and a manual for 50 bucks and YES my Plenum gasket was sucked out in 3 places. It only took 5 hours and it runs like a champ now. However I fixed the pinging earlyer by adding dual cat backs and a k&n cold air filter kit and a good set of plugs. Now im finaly happy after 5 years of knowing there was a problem and my dealership saying its normal.

Answer by tom
Submitted on 8/18/2005
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1998 dodge durango, replaced the ball joints 2 times in the last 6 months, obviously the new ones are just as bad as the old ones, now at low turns and start ups from braking i get a grinding noise from the rear axel, sounds like metal grinding, from reading answers i think it has something to do with the rear axel shaving and grinding and i think i should go take it in and looked at, it looks like the reason why some people have had there rear axel brake so if u get the grinding sound u might want to check it out. Engine has never had any problems with it though for having 90k miles on it. The thing loves to rust at the window frames. I will never buy a U.S. car again and im sticking to european or japanesse cars, my dad owns a 2002 lexus rx 300, it has 100k miles on it and has never had any problems with it at all.

Answer by Cm
Submitted on 8/21/2005
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My wife bought a 99 Durango as a program vehcile in Jan of 00 w/ 2,289 miles, now it has 118K miles and its been an ok car.. Just OK.. The ball joints have been replaced three times, all footed by chrysler corp...The trannie just left us and we have had a fuel tank and pump installed, several sensors, a new rf, lf and rr power window motor, new radio/cd player, new a/c parts, new shocks, tie rod ends, new alternator and water pump, new thermostat and radiator.. All parts came from diffrent sources, but where not oem parts..Also installed a custom made 10x'sbetter intake gasket, that is a crap load better than the factory one and the usual 3K oil changes, brakes evry 45k, and tune ups every 30K.Now that the truck is about to got out from warranty (has 5 yr/120K extd. bumper 2 bumper warranty w/ $50 deductable) I think we'll keep it for another year and see how everything goes. My though: If its a chrysler, never put chrysler parts on it, other wise all you'll do is fix fix fix..

Answer by JESSICAO
Submitted on 8/23/2005
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I recently purchased a used 1999 Durango and after a month or two, the check engine light cane on and no matter what mechanic. I take it to, the readings are coming out normal. I therefore cannot get my car inspected or renew my registration due to this issue. I also have had the decreasing oil light issues, on top of if I am down to less than 5 miles left to the last gallon, my car will not increase in speeds and can go into the 4500rpm to maintain speeds. I know that this is bad for the engine, I therefore need to make sure that I have more than a 1/4 tank at all times. Oh, I forgot, I also an having a ball joint issue on the left side. Please include me on the compliant side. I have spoken to Dodge this morning and they have no clue and will not recall any of these issues...IT IS A SHAME THAT THE BALL JOINT ISSUES ARE ONLY FOR 2000-2004 cars and we are allowed to drive in our "KILLING MACHINES."

Answer by ron
Submitted on 8/23/2005
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I HAVE 99 DURANGO 5.9 125000 MILES OWNED FOR 3 YEARS NOW I LIKE IT BUT A LOT O F WORK DONE ON ONCE IT HIT 100000 MILES TRANY REBUILD (THAT YEAR KNOWN FOR BAD SECOND GEAR )ALL BALL JOINTS TWICE IN 3 YRS. REAR SPEED SENSOR, BELT TENTIONER PULLY, WATERPUMP,.I ONLEY GET 11.3 MILES PER GALLON. IT NOW HAS A COLD START PROBLEM IT STARTS BUT WILL NOT IDLE YOU HAVE TO PUT IT TO THE FLOOR TO KEEP IT RUNNING ONCE IT WARMS UP IT'S FINE NO ENGINE CODES,NEW PLUGS,WIRES,CAP,ROTOR,AIR FILTER NO FUEL FILTER GET THIS DODGE PUT THE FUEL FILTER IN THE PUMP IN THE TANK YOU MUST REPLACE THE WHOLE THING $275.00 IF YOU CAN DO YOURSELF BUT THE PLASTIC TABS BREAK EASY ON THE TANK AND IF THEY BREAK AND YOU INSTALL IT SETS AN ENGINE CODE YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE TANK BUT BACK TO MY IDLE PROBLEM ANY ONE HAVE THIS PROBLEM OR HAVE IDEA WHAT IT IS DEALERS CAN'T FIGURE IT OUT

Answer by Todd
Submitted on 10/5/2005
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I bought my 99 Durango last March. Looked great. Drove great. Had the original ball joints until 130,000 miles and only had to replace 2. Engine clean in and out. Have it serviced religiously. Took a trip to Florida and got all the way to Ft. Lauderdale, when oil pressure gauge started bottoming out and check engine light came on. Checked oil levels which were non-existent. Put nearly a full 5 quarts of oil back in. On the return trip...I was towing a U-Haul trailer and the problem seemed to be worse. No leaking...no dark exhaust (smoke)...no visible signs of a problem...except it seemed to be losing oil and a lot of it. After replacing the oil twice, I added an oil additive, which seemed to help a little bit, but, stopped and checked the oil levels about every 100 miles or so, from Florida to Missouri. When I returned home to St. Louis, the check engine light was staying on. After checking everything, the mechanic said it was only the catalytic converter and replaced it. No longer towing or on the highway, the Durango has not been going through the oil as badly. However, after reading multiple other owners, I am going to have the Plenum Gasket and intake system. This seems to be a real problem with Dodge trucks and vans. The only other problem with my Durango, is a faulty computer relay, which recently started causing the engine to stall. An automotive electrical specialist is trying to trace it down as I am typing this. Tip: when you see your oil pressure gauge bottoming out at any time...please check your oil levels. Also, if you drive your vehicle and it starts pinging or knocking, in any way...stop and check your oil levels...and then have it immediately looked at. Don't keep driving it. THAT is the best way to end up hating your vehicle...because you will be having to spend more money on the replacement of the engine...or vehicle, overall. Any other solutions for the oil loss or electrical issue, email me at toddbcopeland@sbcglobal.net

Answer by marlea
Submitted on 11/18/2005
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Hi I have a 98 durango its been the best vehicle I could ask for. I replaced the air compressor clutch last spring and although we looked for the clutch plate at least 30 minutes in the skid plate and under we never found it. I travel alot and figured it should bounce out...Yeah right...Well a friend and I took it to some sand dunes about a month ago, just goofing off and what do you think happened? Yup, found the plate. Or should I say it found my fan and radiator. Two huge gashes and no phone service...Arggg. Well we put in water from the lake to get us to a gas station to call for a tow, but the damage was done. I had water in my oil. I have just come in from my garage, after breaking the engine down to check the head gaskets I found #4 cylinder is dry not uniform inside or on piston and will not hold liquid. I have never worked on an engine to this extent and I need to know what kind of costs I could expect to fix or replace a cylinder and piston. And where would the fluid be going? I noticed that Paul P. Had a problem with #2+4 and something about exhaust plugs. My valves look good, infact all does except #4. Appreciate any help, just move to this area and don't any men well enough to ask for help, and the shops are terrible. One requested $540 to replace my right front wheel bearing. Ha I think the part was $128. It was a tough job getting that axle nut off though. Sorry to ramble, thanks, marlea

Answer by corndog
Submitted on 1/23/2006
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I bought a 2000 Durango SLT 3 years ago with 65000 miles on it. It has the 4.7L - it seems like most problems here are with the 5.2? Anyways, I had an un-even idle and the engine light coming on - the dealer wanted to replace the computer, but I said "wait" - I was mulling whether to do it or not, and was out driving in a bad rain storm. I hit a very deep puddle - splashed massively and obviously soaked everything under the hood. Immediately I had the transmission problem mentioned here - tranny wouldn't go into overdrive and also slipped a lot in first gear - took forever to go into second. The dealer said the transmission had gone into "safe mode" and they did a reset and cleaned the wiring on some of the electrical connections on the tranny. Less than $200 and all problems (including uneven idle and engine light) completely disappeared. This thing now has 170,000miles on it and just won't quit. Rock solid. Except that now I've got a high-pitched whine in the rear diff. Might need to have a bearing checked. Bottom line - I LOVE this thing. I have the Durango and a 2001 Kia Rio. If I want to get somewhere safely, I definitely take the Dodge. I change the oil every 6000 miles and the fluids in transmission, transfer case, and diffs once a year and before any major trip.

Answer by Sina Siadat
Submitted on 3/15/2006
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UPDATE: Turns out a new oil pump and flush of the oil pan and regular oil changes with regular flushes have kept my engine alive to 117000 miles. I have had many other issues however, and am suffering from one now (check engine code p1632) Saying the governor sensor voltage is too high or something, so the Durango starts out in second gear and wont shift to first. (i can get around it by going to neutral and slamming it quick to first) My balljoints have gone bad, the brakes have lots of stress on them, the water pump went bad, it can take alot of abuse including multiple head on crashes :) overall it sucked alot of money out of me over the years but it was fun

Answer by Dakota23
Submitted on 6/21/2006
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I have a 1999 dodge Dakota with a 318 and the intake manifold gasket is leaking. My dad is about to replace it but before he fixes it he wants to know if anybody knows of a way to fix the problem for good. He doesn't want to do it now and then have to do it again in 20,000 miles. My dad says the gasket gets loose and leaks because there is a plate where the seal is in the manifold that over time starts to flex with the heating and cooling of the motor. Older 318's do not have said plate. Does anyone know if this plate has to be there, or if its for maintenance purposes, or if I can go buy an after market manifold with no plate in. I can't think that the problem is this simple to fix or dodge would have fixed it by now right. Can someone please help!!!

Answer by ken
Submitted on 7/2/2006
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Hi, I am a busy Mom of 3 kids, two of which are Twins. When my husband and I found out we were having twins, suddenly everything had to change and that meant a new vehicle. We bought a Dogde Ram Coversion Van and that is my bus for every thing. After owning it and running it for 3 years and maintaining it correctly, we lost oil pressure, "Dodge Sludge" was the problem. After calling our dealer and warrenty place and finding out that they most likely weren't going to cover the repairs. We let it sit for 6 months, I was lost without my Van. Finally we had to do something and I remembered seeing Auto-RX on line and said "what have we got to loose." Well, it wasn't my van, we put it in and have done 2 oil changes since and it is running perfectly. I am so glad I found this product and would and have suggested it to alot of people. We have even put some in our 91 Ford F150. Thank You so much, Vickie

Answer by DougDaBug1956
Submitted on 7/16/2006
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I too like Ken have a 1998 Durango,purchased new in 1998. Year to Date, I have 80,050 miles on it, since I commute to work via public transportation and my mileage is relatively low, since my purchase date. Similiar to Ken's experience with his 1998 Durango 5.2 L., I too at 65,900 miles had the differential bearing replaced. My local mechanic did the work for around $700.00 I have the burned out bearing on my desk used as a paper weight. I believe the bearings are made in China and most likely are cheap steel, hence the early wear. I'd have to investigate to determine in they are Chinese manufactured. At 74,000 miles the front ball joints exhibited the expected clunk and I had them immediately replaced in light of the reports of other Durango owners losing their front ends while in transit. Currently my ABS warning light comes on and off. I took my Durango to my mechanic and he cleaned and replaced the ABS sensor. But I was told not to worry that I still have brakes, but the distribution is now 50/50 vs a 70/30 ration front vs back. The rear brakes will grab on cold days, but I am aware of the Durango'stemperment. Occasionally my fuel gauge will become possessed and suddenly drop to empty. Shortly thereafter it will rise back up the the current fuel capacity in the tank, which I rarely let go below half. I recently purchased the AutoTap Diagnostic Scanner system for use with my laptop computer and will shoot the ODB II and codes. I like the features in AutoTap in that I can download each diagnostic run into Excel for further analysis. If it's just a needed reset on the diagnostic codes, AutoTap will do it for me. Otherwise, I'll run my diagnostics past my mechanic for review. Overall, the Durango has served me well, although I like to see better quality bearings used in the differential. The bearing should not have worn out that early.

Answer by kyle
Submitted on 8/27/2006
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I have had almost all of these problems listed above. My transmission wont shift into 3rd on cool mornings until the engine temp reaches around 150degrees. Oil pressure will drop to 0 after full throttle burst,will go back to normal, then drop again when you touch the gas. Turn the engine off for one minute, restart and keep the engine speed under 3000rpm while driving ,pressure stays good. But on long trips, my oil pressure was good until 2 hours into the trip then started to drop to 0. Again shut off engine for one minute, restart and was fine. Leaking thermostat gasket(been there). Faulty water pumps(done that twice). Ball joints, replaced all four 3yrs ago, two are bad already(so replacements parts are not any better). Make sure any replacement ball joint comes with a grease fitting(unlike factory and some replacement ones)and keep them greased. Abs and brake light on dash, just read possible problem, not in any hurry for that. Check engine light on but will go off in a few days by itself(always does). Faulty headlight switch, modify internal parts to make up for lousy designers. Engine pinging during acceleration, added a cold air intake system(home made) and took care of that problem. All this and i still get 27mpg on the highway from my 99 durango slt+ with the 5.2(318) v-8. And yes I still love Dodge.

Answer by RDOG
Submitted on 9/9/2006
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I bought a 1999 Durango SLT 2 wheel drive, used with 64K MILES on it. The only time the check engine light came on was after I ran the tank down to fumes and the fuels system went into trouble. That happened twice. I fixed that problem with a new gas cap. I know the dealers say you can go 5K to 7K on the new "high tech" engines and oils, regular or synthetic. WHAT A LOAD OF B/S!!! DEALERS SAY THIS BECAUSE THEY KNOW WHAT THE END RESULT IS! Over time, that maintenance schedule will cause engine failures, usually right about the time the warranty is expired. All oils break down. And synthetic oils on an older engine is also a problem because while it's slicker, it's also thinner and will run out of worn seals and gaskets faster. I was raised on oil changes every 3000 miles and have done so since I purchased the vehicle. The result so far speaks for itself. I also have changed the transmission fluid and engine coolant long before the factory recommended maintenance schedule calls for. No problems there either. I replaced a water pump at approximately 97K and the front hubs and rear bearings at approximately 100K. At 107K, for some reason the backup lights would not come on when I put it into reverse. I located the problem in the pigtail connection at the transmission. All 3 wires had melted together and caused a short. Recently, I thought I was headed for trouble when the engine wouldn't hold an idle. Replaced the battery and was on the road again. In all, at approximately 109K, I have not had any of the major problems with my Durango as have been posted by others. Good luck? Maybe. Regular old school maintenance? More likely. Only time will tell. Thus far I am happy with the vehicle. Sooooooo much better than the Explorer I used to have.

Answer by lizzy
Submitted on 11/3/2006
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It's been only 1yr since I bought my 99 durango and have had problems since day 1. Keep in mind I paid cash so it was my problem now. Day 1 test drove,went fine but 3 hours later kept shutting off on me. Took it to dodge dealer can't seem to find the problem not only that it wouldn't shut off on them.pickedup my car 4 days later from dealer and guess what on the 15 min. drive home i'msitting in the middle of traffic and car shuts off. So I tried a local garage repair shop and in the same day they tell me I need A new computer they can have it for me in 4 to 5 days for ONLY $900.00 .I told them I'll call you back when my husband gets home.I call the dealership give them the info and they said 3 to 4 days for only $650.00. And of couse wanting to save money I had them fix my car.Everything was ok until 3months later I need a new radiator,and not even 2 weeks after that which is now my oil gage is at 0 and I hear knocking.I'm too scared to see what the oil problem is now but if anyone can help please do so. It has oil but not marking and knocking noise.

Answer by durango man
Submitted on 4/14/2007
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Hello there. I have a 98 durango SLT 4x4 with the 5.2. for those who don't know the 5.2 is an old 318 and the bigger v8 is the 360. both of which have been around for ever and been great motors. I have owned dodges for over 30 years now. all have had the 318 and been great run them all for well over 200,000 miles. The ball joint issue has had a recall on certain years. it is kind of a hush deal dig around enough on the web you will find it. As far as the repair on them. It is crazy to say its 900 bucks. I bought all new parts for mine for just a lil under 200 bucks. upper ball joints and lower ball joints and tie rod ends. all the new stuff is sealed lifetime warranty. My durango has over 130,000 miles and has been a dream. change oil every 3000 and rum good gas not crap. air filter change timeing chain/belt depending on your model. plugs and wires. I am hard as hell on my durango. i belong to a 4x4 off road club and put my durango through hell and back. Still running strong and no problems. I also have done a 3" suspension lift on it and am running 33/12.5/15 mudders which is just more added stress to the vehicle and still no trouble. Oh yes you do have to do fluid and filter changes on your tranny and fluid on your axles and transfer case of it will go out just like any other car will. if anyone needs any info feel free to email at jeromemonson@hotmail.com I am a mechanic with about 10 years under my belt but this is just my opinion.

Answer by Woody
Submitted on 5/23/2007
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I also bought a 1999 Dodge Durango and it has broken down in about every category you can think of. I am on my third set of ball joints -- first set replaced by Dodge. I sent an email to NHSTA back in 2002 regarding ball joints noting that the 4X4 Dakota and Durango use the same part number which is crazy since Durango is so much heavier. They were designed too small for the Dakota and so just think what they do on the Durango. Transfer case blew apart on the Highway with 68K on vehicle; and all those reports of computers failing are that the engine compartment is too small for the computer, especially on the 5.9L and the computer's chips fail above a certain temperature, so every 50K miles or so the heat melts the chips and the computer fails -- on my third one now. I have spent about $1000 each year I have owned it over and above the payments. LEMON>>> On American cars, you NEVER buy the first year due to the fact that they are just finding out if the designs that they have done are working or not and the next year is used to fix those design flaws and finally by the third year the vehicle should be in pretty good shape. However, the fourth and/or fifth years are not good cause they are taking content out of the vehicle to boost profits and they are also paying attention to next year's new model... Learn from your mistakes...

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Answer by Joshua
Submitted on 8/29/2003
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Hello, I'm also a mechanic, 15 yrs of exp. If your saying it sucked in the intake gasket, then maybe it's time to pull off the heads and look to see what kind of damage (if any) the gasket did to the cylinder walls or pistons/rings. The miss is less noticable when the a/c is running because the engine automatically adjusts itself to run at a higher RPM. J

Answer by w624
Submitted on 10/24/2003
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Dodge had a proplem with the intake gaskets leaking and sucking all the oil out of the engine. Bulletin Number 09-05-00 Date Feb. 25,2000 My 99 durango had the same proplem dealer fixed it at no charge. If you have accsess to either Mitchell on Demand computer repair software or Alldata it is listet completely.Most Repair shops use this software.Good luck

Answer by Jerry
Submitted on 11/13/2003
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I have a 99 slt with 205000 miles. Runs like a champ. Biggest key is to do the recommended maintenance. While it is more expensive to use the dealer shops I have had no problems to date. I will be purchasing a new 04 Durango in the near future.

Answer by seph31
Submitted on 11/16/2003
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I have a this model durango and I have been to the shop with it 4 times with in the past 4 month for A/C leaks, speed sensor problems 2xs, brake shoes, ABS light, radiator repair and currently my rear wheel differential is smoking badly so I will make trip 5 in four months. I keep up with routine maintenance believe it or not. I think I should just cut my losses and get rid of it ASAP.

Answer by ramtard99
Submitted on 12/3/2003
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I own a 99 dodge ram 1500. It has 11500 miles on it and the only problem i have had is the intake is milled wrong. Chrysler put out a bulletin on it. One side is shorter than the other. I got the intake shaved down on that side and have no problems now.

Answer by BLUERAM
Submitted on 1/5/2004
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JUST TRADED 99 RAM WITH 86,000 MILES. HAS BEEN PINGING FOR THE LAST 20,000 MILES. USES A QUART OF OIL EVERY THOUSAND MILES. THE OIL HAS BEEN CHANGED EVERY 5,000 MILES, AND ALL OTHER MAINT. HAS BEEN PERFORMED. MY MECHANIC SAID NEEDS NEW ENGINE $6,000

Answer by Don
Submitted on 1/23/2004
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In answer to the Dodge that needs a new engine with only 50,000 miles I am quite sure it was not caused by a lack of preventive maintenance. I work for a company that has a fleet of dodge 5.8s and every one of them have had the lower plenum gaskets fail at or around 50,000 miles. Depending on how severe the failure is I have seen the intake suck every bit of engine oil out of the engine in as few as 30 miles. These plenum gaskets were recalled in 2000 but the new ones were just as bad as the old ones and the failures continue to occur. My advise is to have a trusted Dodge dealer mechanic inspect the lower plenum plate gasket gasket for you and collect your warranty from Dodge.

Answer by cathyrae
Submitted on 2/4/2004
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I have a 99 dodge that I am currently in the middle of all the above listed intake issues, gasket completely sucked in, etc. Just outside warranty mileage. Onset was so rapid that engine got so hot it now needs to be replaced. No idea of the costs involved yet. Class Action Law suit, count me in.

Answer by greendurango
Submitted on 2/4/2004
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i own a 99 durango and i took it to the dodge dealer because there ws something wrong with the front end and they tod that my 2 lower ball joints were bad and both l&r upper arm controls were bad inner tierod ends and both of my rear sway links were bad , an est. done at 22 hundred dollars and my warrant company dont want to cover it becase i have only had the durango 2 weeks they said it was a prexisting problem(it was bad when i got the truck)and no where on my contract did it say it does not cover prexisting problems is there any recalls on the ball joints ect. ???

Answer by 99ramsport
Submitted on 2/6/2004
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I have a 99 ram sport that has recently started banging very badly in 4 wheel drive high range when i accelerate it bangs like it is only partially engaged. any ideas?

Answer by 99ram
Submitted on 2/6/2004
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I have a 99 ram sport with about 95k on it. Recently it has started to mak a banging noise when i accelerate in 4 wheel drive high range. No noise in low range. I am looking for ideas and/or suggestions. Thanks.

Answer by clarson
Submitted on 2/9/2004
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hey i have a 99 durango with a 5.2 i have not had any problems out of it. running like a champ with 90k on the odometer. i have upgraded the computer chip, exhaust, and a cold air in take.

Answer by Terrance
Submitted on 2/14/2004
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Hi, I am considering purchasing a 1999 Durango. It seems like a nice vehicle and I can pick it up after negotiating with the dealer for $10,800. It has 63,000 miles on it. Looks very clean inside and out. Any recommendations? After reading these posts I'm kind of weary about the purchase. Please let me know a.s.a.p. any thoughts at tdschemansky@yahoo.com Thanks! Terrance

Answer by Past4.com
Submitted on 2/15/2004
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I've owned my 1999 Durango for about a year now. About 65,000. No problems what so ever.

Answer by BryanB
Submitted on 2/17/2004
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I bought my 99 dodge durango brand new off the lot 4 1/2 years ago. It has been a dream car. I change the oil and oil filter myself every 3,500 miles or so. I did have some pinging issues earlier on but discovered that was operator error. I was using 92 octane and the 5.9 V8 needs the 87. once I switched to 87 octane it has been excellent. I took it in at 30,000 miles for a "tune-up" and that is about it. I now have 62,000 and was planning on taking it in for the 60,000 mile tune-up but after reading some of these posts I'm scared! I also need to put some new tires on it. So far I have been extremely happy with it. Hope my luck doesn't change!

Answer by beacher
Submitted on 2/21/2004
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A few years ago news programs were showing how dealer mechanics can make problems materialize. Especially when a vehicle's warranty expires. This is very apparent when a vehicle has an extended 7 year, 100,000 mile warranty attached to it. It is usually amazing how the dealer mechanics never "find" anything wrong to repair, and how well the vehicles run over the course of the warranty. If the vehicle is out of warranty, especially during a new model introduction, Beware! There is a NEW Durango for 2004. So it comes as no surprise that there will be many "failures" for prior Durango owners.

Answer by Erin
Submitted on 3/15/2004
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We bought a 99'Durango 6 Mos. ago. We like the room, the style, & the ride. We really don't like the gas mileage and the howling sound it makes when we go around a right curve?!! We had a mechanic look at the ball joints after seeing the news about women with children flying and flipping off the road because their ball joints failed and their tires fell off. We were told it is going to be at least $400 to get new ones put on. They said they definitely need to be replaced. Was there ever a recall?? How do I get Daimler Chrysler to pay the bill?? Thanks!

Answer by Christina
Submitted on 3/15/2004
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I have a 99 durango. Bought it 5/20/2002. $900.00 for ball joints. $2000.00 front differential. $1500.00 engine repair for 8th cylinder. Oil needed every two months. I even bought the extended warranty. Funny how easy it is for warranty companies to find a reason to deny coverage. I dreamed of owning a Durango for 10 years. Be careful what you wish for.

Answer by K. M.
Submitted on 3/15/2004
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I bought a 1999 Durango with 79,000 mi. in Nov.2003- 2 weeks after buying it the starter was making a grinding noise as if the flywheel had teeth missing, dealer put on a new starter and still does it every once in a while. In Jan. installed new ball joints and new steering shaft assembly from column to steering box cause it to was grinding = $680.00

Answer by bigNICK
Submitted on 3/18/2004
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I just got my first dodge durango it was used 2001 rt with 80,000 miles. Just one week later the thing well not shift out of 2. dose this happen all the time Seriously frustrated

Answer by Rich
Submitted on 3/19/2004
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I am an original owner of a 99 Dodge Durango and have 79,000 miles on it. I had a few minor problems with the vehicle while under warranty and one major problem. The major problem had to do with metal shavings in the axle, which caused a metal grinding noise coming from the rear end. This was fixed two years ago and the vehicle has been operating flawlessly up until now. I am currently trying to figure out why every time I start up my vehicle and make a forward right turn or a backwards-left turn I hear a clacking sound. This only happens within the first 1-2 minutes of the vehicle operating. Do anyone have any insight on this problem? Rich

Answer by Durangohex
Submitted on 3/19/2004
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I have a 99 Dodge Durango. It turned over 135,000 miles this week, and other than some minor problems, I have been exceptionally happy with its performance.

Answer by Bill in Wisconsin
Submitted on 3/22/2004
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I have a 1999 Durango with the standard 5.2L V-8. I bought it used, and after owning it for three weeks, With 56k miles, the engine blew-up. I was driving on the freeway, when the check engine light came on, the oil pressure dropped to zero, the engine died, and had to be towed. The dealer mechanic said I needed a complete new engine (at my cost). It is amazing how many similar engine failures I have read about. Is the new engine any better than the old one?

Answer by Roberta in BC
Submitted on 3/28/2004
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I own a 99 SLT Plus Durango, I have had no problems what so ever. I have also maintained this vehicle very well, my SUV is now at 210,000 KM's I am very satisfied with my purchase. I am very sorry for the people who bought one that they are not satisfied with.

Answer by Steve from Chicago
Submitted on 3/30/2004
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I have had a '98 5.2 SLT+ Durango and it is at 108k miles. Had a few problems with the serpentine belt, belt adjustor. Recently, I need ball joints (holding off for now), lower intake plenum belly gasket just started fouling some plugs (no real oil loss yet), transfer case seal started seeping... So around $2500 worth of work at the dealer. But at 108k, I'm not complaining as much...

Answer by dj
Submitted on 4/4/2004
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why don't everybody quit crying! i work at a dealership and see all your problems everyday, but this stuff happens with every make of vehicles, not just dodges! everybody go out and buy a toyota, honda or nissan and wath to you find out the expense of repair on imports! you will be glad you own a DODGE!!!!!

Answer by Dale in Arizona
Submitted on 4/9/2004
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Good news!! The answer to my above problem turns out to be the water pump. Somehow the rotor fins in the pump were working into the aluminum cover, cutting metal and working the pully in and out. This chewing up of the metal created a screaching noise that echoed up to the A/C unit. Because I can do the work myself, I will have it fixed in 3 hours at an expected cost of under $100.00. I have had no other problems and yes, I still love my Durango. Remember....EVERY vehicle has it's problems, there is no such thing as a perfect car.

Answer by SinaSiadat
Submitted on 4/26/2004
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1998 Dodge Durango 5.2L 4x4 Oil changed regularly... carbon buildup in oil pan blocking the oil pump screen and causing a drop to zero for oil pressure, meaning new engine is needed... 6000 dollars or so... any ides on how to clean it and a way to not replace the engine. sinasiadat@yahoo.com

Answer by malissia
Submitted on 4/27/2004
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I have the same song and dance story. Manifold, gaskets, ball joints, Transmission all this money on top of the payment now lets talk trade in value, ZERO. If anyone knows of any recalls or class actions please let us know Thank you.

Answer by durango ripping me off
Submitted on 4/30/2004
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Nothing but problems

Answer by Rita
Submitted on 5/5/2004
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If your transmission is slipping out of overdrive. (The little light will come on just after the car gears down for no reason... Have the throttle cable adjusted. Any Haynes repair book or Chilton's manual will have how to do that..

Answer by Marc
Submitted on 5/7/2004
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In response to John's question on 04/13/04 regarding the antifreeze problem, Durango'sare notorious for having the thermostat gasket leak. Save yourself some money and buy a new thermostat gasket at the auto parts store for about $3.00, and a tube of permatex sealant and repair it yourself. The first time this happened, I had the dealer change it for $125.00, and a year later it leaked again. This time I did it myself.

Answer by Mike
Submitted on 6/4/2004
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My friend asked me to check out her 98 Durango. When I turned it on, tons of white smoke started pouring out the exhaust. The 'Check Engine" light was on so I did...There was absolutely no Engine Coolant. I put some in and the smoke went away for about an hour. Now it's back worse than before with more white smoke and what I think is engine coolant spraying out of the exahust. Could it be a cracked cylinder with the coolant leaking through the crack? Everything else on the car looks fine so I don't think it's a blown head gasket.

Answer by Chuck G.
Submitted on 6/7/2004
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I have a 99 Durango w/ 123K miles that has just started cutting off every now and then. My trusted mechanic can't duplicate the problem. He's replaced the ignition sensor/coil? and suggests a new or refurbished computer (around $600). If this is not the answer, I'd rather not spend the cash. Anyone else had this problem?

Answer by Bill
Submitted on 6/13/2004
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99 Durango 99K miles - new engine (harsh driving) now it's a built 318 - NOS, bored 30 over, 50mm throttle body, MSD, Accel, Flowmaster, chip, underdrive pulley, cold air induction, and much more - beware of sludge problems in the stock motors, ABS and Brake light coming on is usually a simple $50 speed sensor on the rear wheel(s) change oil no less often than 2500/3000 miles and hopefully your Gen 1 Durango will be as great a dream as mine....