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Archive-name: travel/tibet-guide/part1
Url: http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet Posting-Frequency: quarterly See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge TIBET - Peter M. Geiser's Hotel and Travel Guide Mystical land, Shangrila, Forbidden Country: Tibet has many names and inspires an air of mystical dreams. However, Tibet is real and a beautiful place to travel. World monuments like the famous Potala in Lhasa and temples in Shigatse and Gyangtse testify of a high culture, while beautiful landscape inspire for treks. For pilgrims from many religions there are sacred places like Mount Kailas. Check out these exciting China tour packages at http://www.chinahighlights.com/cgi-bin/a.pl?chinahi&1009&tours/index.htm or plan your own China trip at http://www.chinahighlights.com/cgi-bin/a.pl?chinahi&1009&forms/tripplanner.htm Places Gyangtse Lhasa Mount Kailas Sakya Shigatse Transportation Flying Bus Car Trekking General Overview Geographical Information Climate People Events Visa Embassies Border Crossing Money Internet Access Hotels Food Health ************************************************************************** TIBET - Peter M. Geiser's Hotel and Travel Guide Copyright (c) 1995 - 2004, Peter M. Geiser http://www.pmgeiser.ch http://www.pmgeiser.com http://www.mineralwaters.org http://www.dussy.ch ************************************************************************** GYANGTSE http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/places/gyangtse.htm Once the center of Tibetan wool trade, it is now a pretty market town in a fertile valley. Sights The Kumbum The Kumbum is Tibet's largest and probably most magnificient stupa. Hotels The Gyangtse Guest House is pleasantly arranged around a Tibetan-style courtyard. ************************************************************************** LHASA http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/places/lhasa.htm Situated 3683 m above sea level, Lhasa has long been the political and spiritual capital of Tibet. Its main attraction is of course the huge Potala Palace. Another must are the Jokhang Temple and the Norbu Lingka. Sights Potala Palace Built in the 17th century, the Potala is one of the architectural wonders of the world, containing thousands of rooms. It stands at the site of older structures, dating back another thousand years. In the center is the older, red palace, surrounded by the large white palce. The Potala was started by the 5th Dalai Lama, who died before it was completed; a fact that was hidden from the people. Before the Chinese occupation it was the center of the Tibetan government and the winter residence of the Dalai Lama. The view from the roof over Lhasa, the valley and to the mountains is just spectacular. Jokhang Temple One of Tibet's holiest shrines, it was built some 1300 years ago in celebration of the marriage of the Tang princess Wen Cheng and King Songtsen Gampo. It houses a golden statue of the Buddha Sukyiamuni brought by the princess. Norbu Lingka The former summer residence of the Dalai Lama is about three km west of the Potala. In spring and autum, when the Dalai Lama moved to and from the Norbu Lingka, there was a great procession following. Drepung Some 7 km west of the Potala lies the monastery Drepung. This biggest monastery of Tibet was once the place where the Dalai Lama was educated. It once housed over 7000 monks (as in 1959), but nowadays there are only 200 to 300. Take bus no. 1 or 9. Sera About four km north of Lhasa is the monastery Sera. It was fonded in 1419 by a disciple of Tsong Khapa. There are about 100 monks living there, who practice debate every day at noon. Take bus No. 10 to get there. Ganden Farther away, 45 km east of Lhasa lies Ganden monastery. Founded in 1409 by Tsong Khapa it was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. Today, for the sake of tourism, it is being revitalised and rebuilt by 200 monks. Events The Xuedun (joghurt) festival, held in August, has a long tradition. During old traditions previous to the 17th century, during three months the lamas were forbidden to leave their monastery. At the beginning of July when they were free to leave the monasteries again, they went out to enjoy themselves. Since the 17th century, the Xodon festival is also called the Tibet-Opera-Festival. Hotels There are many budget places in Tibet. The Banak Shol, Kirey Hotel, Yak Hotel and Plateau Hotel all are about USD 3 - 5 for a single room. Internet Cafes The Barkhor Cafe has a few PCs with internet access. 10 minutes (should be enough to read a couple of e-mails) costs CNY 7, one hour is CNY 40. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C -2 1 5 8 12 16 16 16 14 9 4 0 F 29 34 41 47 54 61 62 60 58 48 39 32 Rain mm 0 13 8 5 25 64 122 89 66 13 3 0 in 0 .5 .3 .2 1.0 2.5 4.8 3.5 2.6 .5 .1 0 ************************************************************************** MOUNT KAILAS http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/places/kailas.htm Mount Kailas (or Kang Rinpoche, Precious Jewel of Snows in Tibetan), is sacred to many people of different religions. This holy mountain rises to an altitude of 6714 meters and its distinctive appearance has long awed people. It is located in Western Tibet. Just south of the mountain are two lakes, Raksas Tal and Manasarovar. For a long time, Mount Kailas was thought to be the source of four great rivers of the earth: the Indus, the Karnali, a tributary of the Ganges, the Sutlej, and the Yarlung Tsanpo, which in India is named the Brahmaputra. Mount Kailas was thought to be the earthly manifestation of the mythical Mount Meru, the axis of the universe. The mountain is not only sacred to Tibetan Buddhists, but also to Tibetans of the Bon Religion, and to Hindus and Jains from India. Darchen The main starting point for any hiking or touring is Darchen (altitude 4620 m), just south of Mount Kailas. There is not much to see there, but you can leave unneeded luggage in locked storerooms or rent additional gear or guides. Kailas Kora Kailas Kora is the scared pilgrimage around the mountain. While Tibetans make this trip in one long day, you should not attempt this, but rather take two to four days. Remember that at this altitude excercise of any kind stresses your health. There is not much food available; it is advisable to bring all you need with you. It is a good idea to make an acclimatisation walk to two other monasteries just near Darchen towards Mount Kailas are Serlung Gompa (5000 m) and Gyangdra Gompa (5000 m). This round-trip should take about 6 to 8 hours. The main tour starts at Darchen. Head westwards until you get to a flagpole, called Tarboche. The Tarboche is full of long lines of prayer flags. Each year on Saka Dawa, the full moon in May or June, there is a large celebration when the prayer flags are replaced by new ones. Continue north and cross a bridge over Lha Chu River. Some way off the main track is the Choku Gompa. Choku Gompa Choku Gompa (4820 m) was built in the 13th century as a shrine. It houses a white stome statue of Buddha Opame and a sacred silver embossed conch shell, said to have belonged to Milarepa. Follow the Lha Chu River to the northern most point of the route, the Drira Puk Gompa. Drira Puk Gompa Drira Puk Gompa (5010 m) offers a simple room with a few places to sleep. It might be a good idea to rest for a day or take the time to go to the Ghangjam Glacier (5270 m), the nearest you will get to Mount Kailas short of mountain climbing. From Drira Puk Gompa the way leads along Shiwachal, a bizarre field with loads of scattered clothing. Devote pilgrims have left some personal item, most often a piece of cloth. Continue up to the highest point of Kailas Kora, the 5570 m high Drolma La, or Pass of Tara. Being the focus of Kailas Kora, pilgrims leave some token like coins or a lock of hair and attach their own prayer flag. Just a little further on to the right is the Gaurikund Lake where devote Hindi take a bath. Some 10 to 12 hours after you have set out from Drira Puk Gompa you finally reach Zutrul Puk Gompa. Zutrul Puk Gompa The Zutrul Puk Gompa (4820 m) is a monastery built around sacred formations said to have been formed by hand by Milarepa. This ascetic had a duel with the sorcerer Naro Bon Chun at the place. In his final fall, Naro Bon Chun caused the large vertical cleft in Mount Kailas' south face. The monastery has a guesthouse with a few beds. A comparatively easy walk brings you back to Darchen. The temples and shrines around Mount Kailas are all looked after by monks from the Drkpa Kagyu Sect. Hotels Accommodation is available, but rather basic. Don't expect luxury amenities. Tours and Transportation There are tours available from Lhasa. Count on at least 15 days (better 25 days, so you won't be rushed) for a trip in good conditions. The weather is best during May and June. The road is often a problem during the monsoon months of July and August. Several modes of transportation are avilable to get there. One possibility is tenting a landcruiser or a truck. Since the road is often bad, it could be a good idea to have two vehicles, but then, there are often other vehicles to get help from during the summer. Make sure you get a reliable driver, and be prepared that sometimes there are accidents. In October 1996, a group had to abort the trip after a collision of two trucks, where one member lost am arm. Group travels arranged in Lhasa cost about USD 3000. Typically, you'll need a truck to carry 10 people, equipment, and food. To form a group, hang out notes on the noteboards in the restaurants around town. There usually are enough people wanting to go. ************************************************************************** SAKYA http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/places/sakya.htm The huge monastery represents the former power of the Sakayapa sect, founded in the 11th century. It contains the most valuable collection of Tibetan religious items remaining in Tibet. ************************************************************************** SHIGATSE http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/places/shigatse.htm Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet. It is the seat of Panchen Lama who ranks close to the Dalai Lama. The Panchen Lama is a reincarnation of Amitabha, the Buddha of Infinite Light. Currently, the 10th Panchen Lama (according to China) 'reigns' from Beijing. Another 10th Panchen Lama, the 6 year old boy Gedun Choekyi Nyima was announced in May 1995 by the Dalai Lama. Sights Tashilhunpo Monastery The huge monastery, built in 1447, was once inhabited by over 4000 monks. Nowadays, only 600 remain there. It is the seat of the Panchen Lama. The Grand Hall contains the tomb (containing more than 85 kg gold and lots of jewels) of the 4th Panchen Lama. There is a 27 m high statue of the Maitreya Buddha. It may be that foreigners wanting to visit the monastery will account trouble. Hotels There are several hotels accepting foreigners. Recommended is the Tibetan-owned Tenzin Hotel right by the free-market. It is arranged around a friendly courtyard. Don't miss its good Chang (Tibetan beer). ************************************************************************** FLYING http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/transport/plane.htm There are flights from Chengdu and Chongqing, and reportedly also from Urumqi. There are two daily flights from Chengdo to Lhasa. It costs about CNY 1500 or USD 200. During the summer there is a flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa. It is operated by Nepal Air. It operates about 2 - 3 times a week and costs USD 190. Hope for good weather! The flight goes right past Mount Everest. The Southwest China Airline flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu is usually heavily overbooked. Be at the airport _very_ early (3 or more hours.) It seems that not the reconfirmation, but the time of arrival at the airport determines who gets on and who not. ************************************************************************** BUS http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/transport/bus.htm There is a bus from Golmud to Lhasa which takes about 40 hours (+- 10 h) on a bumpy road. Official busses cost CNY 1100. There are inofficial ones that charge only CNY 300, but you may get caught at the checkpoints and be fined and sent back. A regular bus runs between Lhasa and Shigatse. The fare for foreigner is about USD 8. There is a bus between Lhasa and Kathmandu (see section on border crossing.) (Although one report says that this isn't so anymore.) ************************************************************************** CAR http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/transport/car.htm It is possible to rent a landcruiser. These landcruisers sit four to five, including a driver. Expect to pay about USD 100 to 200 per day for the car, gasoline, a driver, and a guide. Without the guide the rate is lower. There were reports of a driver named Tsering of the CITS-Shigatse agency attacking his passengers. The latest reports state that he does not work for the agency anymore. I also got a report from a traveller saying that he was very satisfied with the services of the agency. Another bad experience was reported with China Tibet Traffic Holy Land Travel Agency. It is advised to talk to the manager only. ************************************************************************** TREKKING http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/transport/trekking.htm Although not officially allowed, it is nevertheless possible to do some excellent trekking. Be sure you are self-sufficient, since food becomes very scarce once you are outside the main tourist cities. If you get caught, you will have to pay a fine of CNY 500. Make sure you buy a good guide book (see guidebooks section of this guide). ************************************************************************** GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/general/geography.htm Area 1'221'700 km² Capital Lhasa Borders India, Nepal (1236 km), Bhutan (470 km), Myanmar Highest point Zhumulamafeng (Quolomunga, Mt. Everest), 8848 m Time GMT plus eight hours Measures Metric Electricity 220 V, 50 Hz It must be said that the region of the ethnic Tibetans consists not only as what is known Tibetan Autonomous Region, but an area covering a little more than 2 million km2 with a population of roughly 5 million Tibetans (excluding Chinese) as per Chinese government census. These regions are designated as Tibetan Autonomous Prefectures in four other Chinese provinces. The region as a whole is called Cholkha-sum by the Tibetans. ************************************************************************** CLIMATE http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/general/climate.htm Tibet has a continetal climate and it's high altitude (most of it is above 4000 m) warrants rather cold weather, although in summer the thermometer may climb to 25-30 C. For average temperatures and rainfall, see in the section for the aprropriate destinations, e.g. Lhasa. ************************************************************************** PEOPLE http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/general/people.htm Population 1.9 mio Tibetan, since the occupation an increasing number of Han Chinese Language Tibetan, Chinese, some English Tibetans are very friendly and peaceful. For most Tibetans, the Dalai Lama is the highest being in the world, holy and most revered. Even a photo is considered sacred and of course a great treasure. Many tourist thus think it is a good idea to give away photos of their God. This would be so, if there would not be for the Chinese suppressiors that outlawed these photos. Although the police may or may not hassle you for handing out Dalai Lama photos, you'll probably not suffer any harm. But the poor Tibetan found out having a photo will certainly have to face severe problems. The Dalai Lama himself lives in exile in Dharamsala, India, together with thousands of Tibetan refugees. To learn more about Tibetan culture, it might be a good idea to visit this place first. You can also take Tibetan language classes there or in Kathmandu, Nepal. It is generally a good idea to be a tourist, not a politician. While we in the West may have a different view on Tibet than the Chinese do, the fact remains that Tibet is occupied by China, and thus a part of China the same way that e.g. North America is occupied by the Europeans (founding USA and Canada.) If you want to be politically active in Tibet, you can be sure that the Chinese will not tolerate this, and that you will face penalties under Chinese jurisdiction. While you may be lucky and simply be thorwn out of Tibet, Tibetans that are found guilty of political activities (e.g. discussing politics with you) face up to 20 years of prison! So be careful, if not for your sake for the sake of the local population! The best way to help Tibetans is spending your money at their places, restaurants and shops instead of Chinese ones. ************************************************************************** Events http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/general/events.htm Tibetan festivals and events follow the ancient Tibetan calender that was systematized in 1027. Thus, there is not a fixed day of our calender when the festivals take place, but rather the dates are discerned by the higher Tibetan religious instances. With the number of Chinese living in Tibet increasing, the Chinese festivals also gain in importance. Tibetan New Year The Tibetan New Year is reglemented by the systematization of the Tibetan calendar in 1027 and follows the Chinese New Year. Before that, the year started in Tibet with the blossoming of the peaches. On this day, families unite greeting with the auspicious "tashi delek". The next dates are: 24 February 2001 Saturday 12 February 2002 Tuesday 1 February 2003 Saturday 22 January 2004 Thursday 9 February 2005 Wednesday 29 January 2006 Sunday 18 February 2007 Sunday 7 February 2008 Thursday 26 January 2009 Monday 14 February 2010 Sunday Great Prayer Festival Following the Tibetan New Year, this is the greatest religious festival in Tibet. It was instituted in 1409 by the founder of the Gelukpa Sect, Tsongkapa. In Jorkhang monks from the Three Great Monasteries of Tibet assemble to pray to Sakyamuni and hold philosophical debates among candidates for the Doctorate of Metaphysics. From all over Tibet pilgrims come to pray and donate to the monks. The festival lasts nearly two weeks. Butter Lamp Festival The last day of the Great Prayer Festival celebrates the victory of Sakyamuni over non-Buddhist opponents. The festival was established by the Lord of Neu Dzong in 1409 with the illumination of countless butter lamps. Gyantse Horse Race and Archery Every June, people from all over Tibet gather in Gyantse for horse racing, archery and barter trade. In modern times, ball games, racing, folk songs and dances were added. While horse racing and archery is popular all over Tibet, Gyantse is proud of being the oldest such event, being started in 1408. World Incense Day On this day, the Gods in heaven are said to descend to earth. Huge amounts of incense is being burnt. Many people go for a picknick in the parks. Six-Four Festival The day that Buddha gave his first sermon is celebrated with visits to holy mountains. Shoton Festival Held in August or beginning of September, the "Opera Festival" is one of the greatest festivals in Tibet. During seven days, opera performances and contests are held. Since the 7th century, Norbulingka was the centre for this festival. Bathing Week When the sacred planet Venus apears for a week, all the people from Lhasa bath in the river, since it is said that the water becomes pure and can even cure disease. Death of Tsongkapa In memory of the great reformer of Tibetan Buddhism, his death on that day in 1419 is still remembered. People burn butter lamps on the roofs and pray. In the evening, Tibetan dumplins are served as supper. Driving Off Evil Spirits At the end of the Tibetan year, religious dances to drive off evil spirits are help in monasteries all over Tibet. Every houshold burns bundles of straw and throws rubbish on the streets. The Year-End-Dumpling is served for supper. ************************************************************************** VISA http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/general/visa.htm To enter Tibet you need a valid Chinese visa. At the moment, only tour groups are officially allowed into Tibet. When you apply for the Chinese visa, make sure you do not mention that you want to go to Tibet (state anything else, e.g. Beijing, Xian, Shanghai, Chengdu, etc.). You want to go to China, and need a valid visa to China. For addresses of Chinese embassies, see the section Embassies in the Internet Travel Guide to China. Nowadays it is possible to get a 60 days tourist visum in Kathmandu, Nepal. The difficulties that one have been common seem to be past. Once you are within Tibet, it is possible to extend your visa up to two times for 15 days each time. An extension costs CNY 110. It may be that visa extension may not be issued during politically sensitve events. ************************************************************************** EMBASSIES http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/general/_embassy.htm ************************************************************************** BORDER CROSSING http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/general/border.htm To enter Tibet, you usually should be on a tour. Usually, you will be refused entry if you are by youself, although it might be possible that you are still admitted. A 'standard' way to enter Tibet is by plane from Chengdu. There are busses or trucks from Golmud. They should cost about USD 100 and takes about 30 hours. It is not quite clear whether this is still illegal or not. Apart from the regular busses, sleeper busses are available. Hitch-hiking may be possible, but is illegal outside Lhasa province. Even if you as a tourist may be let off easily, the driver caught with a foreigner will have to pay a heavy fine. I heard of several travllers that were walking or tried to walk from Sichuan or Yunnan. There are busses from Kathmandu to Tibet. The bus from Kathmandu to Kodari (the Nepalese border) takes about 8 hours. Cross the border bridge by foot (there are porters). There is a shuttle service to the Chinese border station Zhangmu seven steep kilometers away. From there, you should take a 2 day or a 4 day tour to Lhasa with CITS. The bus from Lhasa to the border takes three days. The bus leaves three times per month (on the 1, 10, and 20), that you have to book far in advance. There is a flight between Kathmandu and Lhasa 2 - 3 times a week for around USD 200. A five day trip in a Jeep costs USD 140 in Kathmandu. If you want to enter from Nepal, the officials at the border are asking CNY 200 for a special permit to travel in Tibet. However, the police station is not open until 8 am, so you will not get a permit before (but you can enter anyway, beeing early saves you CNY 200). I have also reports of some tourists only paying CNY 35 when accompanied by a Chinese army officer. Probably, that's the official rate. CITS also wants a share of it. They are issuing an ATP (Alien Travel Permit) for USD 100. If you don't have one, you'll be stopped by very well equipped police (Gore-Tex jackets, etc.) further up the road. Entry through Kashgar, Yarkand, Mazarpass to Ali is a good possibility. An ATP in Ali costs CNY 50, with an additional fine of CNY 300 for illegal travelling. There, you can also get visa extensions. An organised trip of seven cyclists plus a guide complete with the necessary permits cost USD 260 per person for a 20 day trip. With this, you can cycle relatively freely, but have to report in at the checkpoints. Another hazard when crossing the border is of a more natural kind. There are quite often rock and land slides, especially after rain. One such slide killed a foreigner and his Chinese guide in the morning of 2 Sep 1995, and in July 1996 a whole hamlet with a couple of hotels and 64 people disappeared forever. Due to these land slides you have to change trucks or taxis frequently (they bring you up to the slide, you climb over and on the other side you'll be ripped off one more time to get a hike to the next slide or finally the border). For the latest information talk to fellow travellers just coming from Tibet you'll meet in Nepal (e.g. in the Pumpernickle Bakery in Kathmandu) or in Chengdu. Generally, it is best to maintain a low profile. Draw as little attention as possible towards you. It's not the tourist that the Chinese fear, but the politically involved and caring person. This does not mean that you should not care about Tibetan politics, just that you should be careful in when and where you show your views. ************************************************************************** MONEY http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/general/money.htm The currency is the Chinese Yuan (ISO code CNY), divided into 10 Jiao or 100 Fen. However, money within China is called RMB (Ren Min Bi, people's money), and people normally refer to Yuan as Kuai (piece, the counting word for money, as in yi kuai qian = one piece of money), Jiao as Mao and Fen as Sen. Notes are available in denominations of 100, 50, 10, 5, 2 and 1 yuan, 5, 2 and 1 jiao, and 5, 2, and 1 fen. Coins are 1 yuan, 5, 2 and 1 jiao, and 5, 2 and 1 fen. Note: As with most currencies, there are counterfeits. Banknotes printed from 1990 on have a metal thread woven into their fabric. The exchange rate is about USD 1 = 8.27 CNY (Jan 2003) (Historical development: very stable 8.28 since 1996, 8.3 Sep 1995, 8.7 Jan 1994, 5.8 in 1993, 5.5 in 1992, 5.3 in 1991, 4.8 in 1990, 3.8 in 1989) To get a nice small conversion table that you can put in you pocket, look at the Currency Cheat Sheet at http://www.oanda.com/convert/cheatsheet?user=pmgitg. Travellers cheques will give you a better exchange rate. Travellers cheques denominated in most major currencies are accepted by the Bank of China. You normally get a better exchange rate than for cash. There is a 0.75% commission. Most larger hotels, restaurants and department stores accept credit cards. Of course, in small shops, or markets, credit cards are not accepted. There is an American Express business travel center in the Swissotel Beijing Hong Kong - Macao Center in Beijing. It is a cooperative effort between American Express and China International Travel Service (CITS). American Express has four other travel service offices in Beijing, Shanghai, Xiamen and Guangzhou and 23 representative offices throughout China. American Express has also cash machines where you can get cash (Chinese Yuan), provided you have a pin. There is one in the Beijing World Trade Center Shopping Arcade. Remember to always bargain. Chinese people are very good business people that can smell money when it's lying around. They consider Westerners to be living and walking money bags. Even if it is sometimes a nuisance, they reason that even if you pay several times the price that a local pays, you still can afford it. Always ask for the price first, especially in restaurants. Otherwise you could end up having ordered this 'really special soup' that costs you USD 100 (one hundred, no typing mistake, it happened to a friend of mine!) The FEC (Foreign Exchange Certificate) was finally abolished in January 1994. However, it seems that still a few circulate. The disappearance of the FEC also caused the black market to virtually disappear. If you really want to change money on the black market, make sure you know the exchange rates, the bank notes, and count carefully the money you get before handing over your own money. Changing money on the black market is illegal, there are sometimes secret police changing, the exchange rate may be worse than in banks and shortchangings are frequent, so it is not really advisable anymore to change money on the black market unless you know the game quite well. ************************************************************************** HOTELS http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/general/hotels.htm Hotel standards have improved a lot over the last couple of years. In the larger cities that are frequented by tourists you get a lot of quality accommodation. But away from these places you will have to put in a bit more effort to get accommodation. I advise you to book ahead of time. Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/general/hotels.htm. ************************************************************************** FOOD http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/general/food.htm Food is often quite scarce in Tibet. Apart from Lhasa, only Shigatse seems to have a reasonable food supply. For trips outside these towns, make sure bring enough food with you. Apart from Tibetan you'll also get Chinese food. ************************************************************************** HEALTH http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet/general/health.htm As every region, Tibet also has its special health problems. This text does not mean to scare you away, but rather to warn you of dangers that you can face with little problems if you take some simple precautions. A big problem is the high altitude with the thin air. Many people suffer from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), also known as Altitude Sickness. Until your body has become accustomed to the thin air (much less oxygen than normally), you may experience dizziness, nausea, headache and difficulties with sleeping. Make sure you don't dehydrate (i.e. drink a lot.) Avoid alcohol and tobacco. Extract from TIBET TRAVEL ADVENTURE GUIDE The material is excerpted from TIBET TRAVEL ADVENTURE GUIDE, by Michael Buckley, (c) copyright 1999, all rights reserved, reprinted with permission. Order the book directly from Amazon.com at http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1895907985/theinternettraveA/ or Amazon.co.uk at http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/1895907985/theinternettra02/ (ISBN 1895907985, 272pp, 22 maps & plans, 6pp colour photos) Have a look at the section guidebooks! Altitude Sickness When Sherpas say climbing is in their blood, they may mean it literally. Sherpas have a physiology adapted to the high-altitude environment--their blood has a higher red-cell count, and their lung capacity is larger. Ability to adapt to altitude is thought to be in your genes. That may mean you either have the high-altitude genes or you don't. If you do, you can adapt quickly; if you don't, it will take longer--or so the theory goes. At higher altitudes, air pressure is lower, and the air is thinner. Although it contains the same percentage of oxygen as it does at sea level, there's less oxygen delivered in each lungful of air. So you have to breathe harder, and your body has to convert to more red blood-cells to carry the oxygen through the system. Altitude sickness is something of a mystery. It does not appear to depend on being in shapes: athletes have come down with it, and it may occur in subjects who have not experienced it before. Altitude sickness generally occurs at elevations above 2000 metres, becomes pronounced at 3500 metres, and then requires adjustment at each 400 metres of elevation gain after that. Terrain above 5000 metres (common enough in Tibet) is a harsh, alien environment--above 6000 metres is a zone where humans were never meant to go. Like diving at depth, going to high altitudes requires special adjustments. To adapt, you have to be in tune with your body. You need to travel with someone who can monitor your condition--and back you up (get you out) if something should go wrong. Consider this: if you were to be transported in a hot-air balloon and dropped on the summit of Everest, without oxygen you would collapse within 10 minutes, and die within an hour. However, a handful of climbers have summited Everest without oxygen: by attaining a degree of acclimatisation, they have been able to achieve this. A similar analogy could be drawn with flying in from Chengdu, which is barely above sea level, to Lhasa, at 3650 metres. That's a 3500-metre gain in an hour or so. You need to rest and recover. Coming by land from Kathmandu, you rise from 1300 metres up over a 5200-metre pass at Tong La--a gain of 4000 metres over a few days (to soften the blow, it would be worth staying a few days at Nyalam, which is 3750 metres). The study of altitude sickness is still evolving. Recent studies suggest that altitude sickness may be due to leaky membranes--which are more permeable as you up in elevation. It was unknown if a person could survive above 7500 metres without oxygen until 1978, when Messner and Habeler summited Everest. Actually, a hundred years earlier, in 1875, French balloonist Tissandier reached 8000 metres after a three-hour ascent and lost consciousness: the balloon descended and Tissandier survived but his two companions died. Messner was told he would come back from Everest a raving madman, or, at the very least, a brain-damaged automaton if he attempted the peak without oxygen. Messner got his timing right, got to the top, and went on to bag all the 8000-metre peaks without oxygen. Climbers like Messner, however, will admit to impaired functions at higher elevations--and to strange encounters. Messner recalls talking to his ice axe, talking to his feet, talking to an imaginary companion and having hallucinations. The Buddy System When you go diving, you use the buddy system. You watch out for your friend underwater, which is an alien environment and a potentially dangerous one. You could draw close parallels in Tibet: high altitude is a dangerous environment. If someone gets altitude sickness, he or she becomes confused or disorientated, and cannot make the right decisions. Someone else has to take those decisions. Back yourself up in Tibet with at least one buddy. And be prepared to watch out for others in a Landcruiser group if someone falls sick. Other Health Problems Of course the cold weather makes it very likely that you get a cold and a cough. Take care to get enough vitamins. There is the same stomach bug named giardia that is also found in Nepal. Take enough anti-gardia drugs like Flagyl or Tiniba with you, they are hard to find in Tibet. Don't drink tap water. Even in the smallest guest houses in the remotest villages there are thermos bottles with boilt water. It is used to drink tea. There are many dogs in the streets and near the monasteries. There are reports of foreigners beeing bitten. ************************************************************************** TIBET - Peter M. Geiser's Hotel and Travel Guide Copyright (c) 1995 - 2004, Peter M. Geiser http://www.pmgeiser.ch http://www.pmgeiser.com http://www.mineralwaters.org http://www.dussy.ch ************************************************************************** User Contributions:
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Last Update March 27 2014 @ 02:12 PM
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Tibet - The Internet Travel Guide (FAQ) (part 1/1)
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Tibet - The Internet Travel Guide (FAQ) (part 1/1)
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