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Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset=US-ASCII See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge Archive-name: travel/china-guide/part1 Url: http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china Posting-Frequency: quarterly CHINA - Peter M. Geiser's Hotel and Travel Guide China is a superb tourist destination with a rich history and an enormous number of sights. Home to numerous different ethnic groups, it offers a cultural variety that is not found elsewhere. China's major cities Beijing, Shanghai, Xian and Guangzhou are all worth a trip alone. Check out these exciting China tour packages at http://www.chinahighlights.com/cgi-bin/a.pl?chinahi&1009&tours/index.htm or plan your own China trip at http://www.chinahighlights.com/cgi-bin/a.pl?chinahi&1009&forms/tripplanner.htm But China is not only a giant of tourism, it is in the middle of an economic boom that makes China one of the leading nations in the world. Places Beijing Chang Cheng (Great Wall) Chang Jiang (Yangtse) Changzhou Chengde Chengdu Chongqing Dali Dalian Dong Guan Dunhuang Emei Forbidden City Guangzhou (Canton) Guilin Haikou (Hainan Island) Hangzhou Hefei Hekou Huang Shan Jinan Jiuzhaigou Kashgar Khotan Kunming Lijiang Luoyang Nanjing Qingdao Shanghai Shaolin Monastery Shenzhen Suzhou Tianjin Urumqi Wuhan Xian Xiamen Yangshuo Zhengzhou General Information Border Crossing Climate Embassies Events Food Geographical Information Health History Hotels Internet Access Mail Money People Safety Telephone Visa Transportation Bicycle Boat Bus Flying Train ************************************************************************** CHINA - Peter M. Geiser's Hotel and Travel Guide Copyright (c) 1995 - 2005, Peter M. Geiser http://www.pmgeiser.ch http://www.pmgeiser.com http://www.mineralwaters.org http://www.dussy.ch ************************************************************************** INTERNET HOTEL AND TRAVEL GUIDES New series by Peter M. Geiser and Sibylle Dussy, with many photos: HONG KONG http://www.pmgeiser.ch/hongkong JAPAN http://www.pmgeiser.ch/japan MACAU http://www.pmgeiser.ch/macau SWITZERLAND http://www.pmgeiser.ch/schweiz "Classics", FAQ of rec.travel.asia CAMBODIA http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia CHINA http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china LAOS http://www.pmgeiser.ch/laos MYANMAR (BURMA) http://www.pmgeiser.ch/myanmar TIBET http://www.pmgeiser.ch/tibet VIETNAM http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam Hotel guides INDIA http://www.pmgeiser.ch/india INDONESIA http://www.pmgeiser.ch/indonesia MALAYSIA http://www.pmgeiser.ch/malaysia NEPAL http://www.pmgeiser.ch/nepal SINGAPORE http://www.pmgeiser.ch/singapore THAILAND http://www.pmgeiser.ch/thailand ************************************************************************** BEIJING http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/beijing.htm Beijing, a city of more than 10 million people, has been the capital of China for over 800 years. The first records of the city date back over 3000 years. At the web-version of this travel guide at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/beijing.htm is an interactive map, and another, very large map of Beijing. Sights Beijing offers such a wide array of attractions that one can easily spend weeks without getting bored. Some of the main attractions are listed below. Tiananmen Square 'The Square of the Gate of Heavenly Peace' is reportedly the largest square of the world, with 1 km2. It is framed by the 'Great Hall of the People' on its west side and the 'Museum of Chinese History' and 'Museum of the Chinese Revolution' on the east. On the south part is 'Chairman Mao's Mausoleum'. At the north side is the entrance to the Forbidden City Jinshan Park Just behind the Imperial Palace is the Jinshan Park. On top of the hill is a pagoda where you get a good view over the Imperial Palace and the city. Bei Hai Park Located just west of the Forbidden City, this park is set on the shores of a nice lake. Its bright white pagoda on top of a hill is visible quite far and dominates the park. Temple of Heaven (Tian Tan) The best time to see this park is when it opens at 6:30. It is a good place to see Chinese people doing their numerous morning activities like Taiqi, martial arts, ballroom dancing, playing musical instruments, Mahjiang and Chinese Chess. The entrance is CNY 30. Tibetan Lama Temple (Yong He Gong) Located in the north of the city is the Tibetan Lama Temple. Summer Palace (Yu He Yuan) The summer palace has been built be the mother of the last emperor, Xi Qi. It is a pleasant garden with numerous imperial buildings on the shore of a lake. The whole garden has been built out of taxes raised for building a marine for China. o that nobody could accuse her of not building any ships, the Emperor Dowager built one marble ship at a jetty. It takes about an hour from the center to the Summer Palace. The entrance is CNY 35. Recommended Books Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C -5 -2 5 12 20 25 26 25 20 13 4 -2 F 23 28 41 54 68 77 79 77 68 55 39 28 max C 1 4 11 20 26 30 31 29 26 19 10 3 min C -10 -7 -1 7 13 18 22 20 14 7 -1 -7 Rain mm 76 76 76 102 152 203 305 254 178 152 102 76 in 3 3 3 4 6 8 12 10 7 6 4 3 days rain 2 3 4 5 6 10 14 13 7 5 4 2 Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/beijing.htm. Restaurants Most big hotels have international style restaurants. Near the budget hotels are many cheap and quite nice restaurants. There are many vendors selling excellent pancakes on their bicycle kitchens. Bars Around the Sanlitun diplomatic area there are numerous bars and nightclubs. Jazz is big in Beijing. Many bars feature live Jazz music. Some places are: CD Cafe Jazzbar, East Third Ring Road, south of the Agriculture Exhibition Center. Tel 6501-8877 ext. 6156. Fr - Sa, 9:30 pm -1:30 am, free entry. Featuring the Liu Yuan Quintet, the quintessential Beijing lineup. Great Wall Sheraton Atrium, 10 East Third Ring Road North. Tel 6500-5566. Sunday brunch only, free. Live jazz. Guys-Shadow Cafe, 31 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District. Tel 6261-8587. Th, Fr, Sa, 10 pm, free entry. Some of Beijing's top musicians offer traditional jazz with Chinese elements. Moon Shanghai (Shanghai Nights), 4 Gongti Beilu. Tel 6506-9988. Th to Sa, 9 pm - 12:00 pm. Main room free. The house band of retired music professors offers jazz from the 1920s and '30s. San Wei Bookstore, 60 Fuxingmennei Dajie. Tel 6601-3204. Fr 8:30 pm - 10:30 pm, 30 renminbi ($3.60). The Wide Angle Jazz Band starring Liu Xiaosong, one of Beijing's top drummers. ************************************************************************** CHANG CHENG (GREAT WALL) http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/changcheng.htm The Chinese Wall or Great wall was built as a protection against the Mongols from the north. It has been built in several stages and was at its prime time more than 8000 km long. Today, most of it is in a state of bad disrepair, and at some stretches even nearly invisible. However, the Chinese government has recognised its value as a tourist attraction and a place of historical significance, so it's starting to restore at least part of it. There are several spots to visit it. Ba Da Ling The most famous and best known is Ba Da Ling. It is located 70 km northwest from Beijing and easily reachable by tours. The wall is well restored, but also extremely crowded. There is a cable car going up on the wall, close to Hao Han Po. Ming Ling Less impressive than Ba Da Ling, but also less crowded. Mu Tian Yu Less crowded than Ba Da Ling, this place is very scenic. Tours and Transport There are several tours from Beijing to the Great Wall (mostly Badaling). CITS charges USD 30 for transport, tickets to both the Great Wall and the Ming Tombs, Lunch and Shopping (they will bring you to a tourist shop where you are supposed to buy overpriced goods, so that the driver gets a commission.) It should be possible to get cheaper tours. Check out the ticket stands on Tienanmen Square or the small restaurants near the Qiao Yuan Hotel in Beijing. Several hotels offer tours for USD 30 to 50, which is still not exactly cheap. Another possibility is to go by subway to Xizhimen station and then by train to Badaling. This should cost about USD 2. Going by train you'll miss the Ming Tombs but you will have more time at the Great Wall. The cheapest possibility is of course to take the public bus. It is possible to walk along parts of the wall. You have to get permission if you want to go astray the usual tourist spots. If you bring a sleeping bag with you, you can even sleep on the wall. In theory you'd have to get permission to camp outside (but you're probably better off not mentioning your plans.) One possibility to experience the Great Wall is to ride a mountain bike over at least part of it. Getting permission requires a _lot_ of red tape with the government. Since the wall is not too well preserved for most of its lenght you will have to bring more than enough repair material with you. Your tires are likely to get punctured more than 20 or 30 times a day. ************************************************************************** CHANG JIANG (YANGTSE) http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/changjiang.htm The Chang Jiang is Chinas longest river. The new dam has now finally been completed 40 km upstream of Yichang, at Xiling Gorge. This dam will put the Three Gorges between Yichang and Chongqing under water. But you still can enjoy the wonderful view of all the breathtakingly sheer cliffs. One wonders who built the houses on long stilts trying to hold on to the shore as well as possible. There are four classes on the regular boats: second to fifth. In communist China there is no first class, as this is considered bourgeois. Second class is a double room and public showers and toilets that are lockable (in contrast to the other showers and toilets that are in one big room with everybody watching everybody else.) Third class is in an eight berth room, while fourth class is in 14 berth rooms. Fifth class is no berth at all and probably not quite official. When I took the boat I was bold enough to use the second class shower and toilet and most of the time stayed in the second class part anyway. Since I was a foreigner nobody dared to say something (or they didn't know that I stayed in third class.) The more touristy boats are run by companies such as Regal China Cruises. They take four days from Chongqing to Wuhan, and are thus not only much slower than regular boats, but more expensive as well. For all that extra money you get all-day Chinese music blaring from loudspeakers. The 130 m long ships hold 258 passengers, air-conditioning, private bathrooms, television, refrigerator and 24-hour service. There are shows every evening and a lot of on board entertainment, so that the trip resembles the average cruise through the Caribbean Sea. ************************************************************************** CHENGDE http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/chengde.htm Located some 250 km northeast of Beijing, this mountain city offers a nice, cool alternative to the summer heat of the capital. Sights Bihushanzhuang In 1703 the Qing emperor Kang Xi built a summer palace and gardens, calling his summer residence Bihushanzhuang (fleeing-the-heat mountain hamlet). Under his grandson Qianlong it had grown to the size of Beijing's Forbidden City and Summer Palace combined, and was surrounded by a 10 km long wall and covering 590 hectares. Qianlong built many pieces of minorities architectures, especially Tibetan. Putuozongsheng (Potala) Palace The largest and most impressive of the Chengde palaces was built in 1790 by Qianlong for his 60th birthday. Xumifushou Temple This temple was built in 1781 in honour of the sixth Panchen Lama. It is an imitation of a temple in Shigatse and combines Tibetan and Han architecture. The highest point features a hall with eight copper dragons, giving the roof an impressive look. Pule Temple Built in 1776 for visits of minorities, among them Kazaks, this temple features an unusual Round Pavillion that resembles Beijing's Temple of Heaven. Puning Temple The Puning Temple was built by Qianlong to commemorate his victory over the Mongols. A stele describes the events in Chinese, Manchu, Tibetan and Mongol. The temple itself is modeled on a Tibetan temple. It features a 22 m high Buddha, Avalokitesvara, with 42 arms and an eye on each palm. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C -5 -2 5 14 20 25 26 25 20 13 4 3 F 24 29 41 57 68 77 79 77 68 55 39 37 Rain mm 76 76 76 102 152 203 305 254 178 152 102 76 in 3 3 3 4 6 7 12 10 7 6 4 3 ************************************************************************** CHENGDU http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/chengdu.htm The capital of Sichuan is a beautiful city with some wide streets and many nice old houses and streets. There are several markets worth visiting. In the western outskirts of the city is the Thatched Hut of Du Fu, a famous Tang dynasty poet. It is set in a large, beautiful park with bamboo grooves, tea houses, and many relaxing places to sit down and enjoy the scenery. Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/chengdu.htm. Restaurants Between the main road Renmin Nanlu and the bus station there is a nice footpath along the Nanhe River with many cheap restaurants. These restaurants also offer excursions to various attractions all over Chengdu, like visiting factories, a traditional Chinese hospital and Sichuan Opera (where you can dress up like an actor and sometimes even take part) in the opera. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C 7 10 15 20 23 26 29 30 25 19 14 11 F 45 50 58 67 73 78 84 86 77 66 57 51 Rain mm 15 20 38 99 142 180 142 122 150 112 48 20 in .6 .8 1.5 3.9 5.6 7.1 5.6 4.8 5.9 4.4 1.9 .8 ************************************************************************** CHONGQING http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/chongqing.htm Chongqing is one of the biggest cities in China and also one of the most polluted cities in the world (it made the top ten!). It is one of four administrative cities in China. It is situated on a hill at the confluence of the Chang Jiang and the Jialing Jiang. To get a beautiful view you can take the cable car across the Jialing river. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C 7 10 15 20 23 26 29 30 25 19 14 11 F 45 50 58 67 73 78 84 86 77 66 57 51 Rain mm 15 20 38 99 142 180 142 122 150 112 48 20 in .6 .8 1.5 3.9 5.6 7.1 5.6 4.8 5.9 4.4 1.9 .8 Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/chongqing.htm. ************************************************************************** DALI http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/dali.htm Wedged between the Erhai Lake and the Cang Shan Mountains at an altitude of 1975 m above sea level, Dali is one of the main tourist hangouts in China. Dali has a mild climate, with an annual mean temperature of 15 C and only about 56 days of frost and an average annual rainfall or 1100 mm. Already inhabited during neolithic times, Dali became an important market place just off the Burma road during the time of the Han dynasty. As early as 109 BC, the Han Emperor Wu Di set up administrative institutions. The King of the Menshe tribe founded the state of Nanzhao (Southern Princedom) in 739. Nearly two centuries later, in 937, Duan Siping, chief of the Bai, overthrew Nanzhao and founded the Dali kingdom, which lasted until Kublai Khan conquered it in 1253 and integrated it into Yunnan province. In the region of Dali live mostly Bai. Especially the women dress in a very colourful style. A good time to visit is when one of the many festivals is due. Festivals The San Yue Jie (Third Moon Street Fair) is held between the 15th and 21st day of the third lunar month (usually April.) Originally a Buddhist festival, nowadays there are dances, races and singing, and a big market with many goods to trade or buy. During the Rao Shan Lin (Walkabout Festival), from the 23rd to the 25th day of the fourth lunar month, people dance and sing from one temple to another. In the height of the summer, on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month, the Huo Ba Jie (Torch Festival) is held. There are dragon-boat races, and in the evening fireworks are displayed and people carry blazing torches around the town and its surroundings. Sights Zong Sheng San Ta (Three Pagodas) Built in the 9th century, these three pagodas are just outside Dali. Guanyin Tang (Temple of the Goddess of Mercy) Five km south of the city, the Guanyin Temple is built on top of a huge boulder. Legend has it that the Lady Guanyin has placed it there to protect Dali from an invading army. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C 10 11 14 18 19 20 20 20 18 16 13 10 F 49 52 58 64 67 67 68 68 65 60 55 50 Rain mm 8 18 28 41 127 132 196 198 97 51 56 15 in .3 .7 1.1 1.6 5.0 5.6 7.7 7.8 3.8 2.0 2.2 .6 Transportation There are excellent mountainbikes for rent at the Red Camelia Hotel for CNY 10 per day. On Mondays, tourbusses depart for the Shapin Market for CNY 13. The public bus is CNY 6 one way. The taxi to the airport is CNY 80 and the ride takes about 40 minutes. Hotels The Red Camelia Hotel, also known as the No 2 Guesthouse has double rooms for CNY 30 and CNY 90 with showers and CNY 180 for the luxury suites. Dormitory beds are CNY 10. The No 1 Guesthouse has rooms for CNY 110, CNY 200 and CNY 240. ************************************************************************** DALIAN http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/dalian.htm Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/dalian.htm. ************************************************************************** DONG GUAN http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/dongguan.htm Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/dongguan.htm. ************************************************************************** DUNHUANG http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/dunhuang.htm Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/dunhuang.htm. ************************************************************************** EMEI http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/emeishan.htm South of Chengdu, this is one of the four sacred mountains of China. You can be sure that there are scores of tourists, mostly Chinese. The typical tour is to get up one day, spend the night at the monastery on top, view the sun rise on top of the mountain and then get back down again. There are several cheap hotels. You can also try your luck at one of the monasteries, usually the cheapest places, but also the most crowded. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C 7 10 15 20 23 26 29 30 25 19 14 11 F 45 50 58 67 73 78 84 86 77 66 57 51 Rain mm 15 20 38 99 142 180 142 122 150 112 48 20 in .6 .8 1.5 3.9 5.6 7.1 5.6 4.8 5.9 4.4 1.9 .8 ************************************************************************** FORBIDDEN CITY http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/forbidden.htm The imperial palace of the former emperors of the Ming and the Qing dynasty is commonly known under the name 'Forbidden City'. This name is derived from the fact that nobody was allowed inside the city, except the emperor himself, his wifes and concubines and the eunuchs. The official name is now "Gu gong bo wu yuan" (Palace Museum) or short just Gu gong. Construction started in 1406 when emperor Yang Le dispached officials to the provinces to orgranise building materials. The first palace was completed in 1420, only to have the three main halls destroyed by fire the next year. Fire soon became somewhat common. Every couple of years some building or other burnt down, but as you can see, it was always rebuilt. Many of the buildings have changed name over time. In this guide I shall use the name that was last used and is still the one that is commonly known. The complex is huge, covering 961 m from north to south and 753 m from east to west. It is surrounded by a moat, called the "Tube River". Just inside are very impressive walls that are 7.9 m high, 8.62 m thick at the base and 6.66 m wide at the top. The walls are formed by three layers of bricks on both the inside as well as the outside of an earthen core. To complete the wall, more than 12 million bricks measuring 48 cm x 24 cm x 12 cm and weighing 24 kg were needed. Map of the Forbidden City In the Web-version of the Internet Travel Guide at http://www.pmgeiser.ch there would be a map right here. Descriptions of Selected Buildings The main entrance is the Meridian Gate, a forbidding structure enclosing three sides of a rectangle with 12 m high walls with a huge hall on top of these walls. Just beyond the Meridien Gate is a courtyard covering 26'000 m². It is divided by the beautifully curved Inner Golden River, which can be crossed by five bridges. The Gate of Supreme Harmony leads to the center of the Forbidden City, consisting of the three main Palaces elevated on a three-tired terrace 8.13 m high. The first and largest (60 m wide and 33.33 m deep), the Hall of Supreme Harmony, towers 35.05 m high. In the middle of the hall is the ornately carver imperial throne. During the Ming and Quing dynasties it was the centre of the court activities. All the important ceremonies such as cownings, imperial birthdays, royal weddings, etc. held place. Just behind the Hall of Supreme Harmony is the Hall of Complete Harmony. It was used by the empreror to acknowledge respects of various court officials and to read memorials. Its square shape with 24 m side length is dwarved by the other two halls. The third hall, the Hall of Preserving Harmony was used to hold the imperial examinations, the highest ranking civil service examinations. It houses another throne, but not as intricately carved as the imperial throne. Leading from the Hall of Preserving Harmony down into the courtyard is a huge slab of marble (16.57 m long, 3.07 m wide, and 1.7 m thick), weighing more than 250 tons! It displays beautifully carved dragons. Behind that courtyard is the Inner Court. This was the residential area of the emperor and the imperial household. Its main structures in order are Gate of Heavenly Purity, Palace of Heavenly Purity, Hall of Union, Palace of Earthly Tranquility, and Gate of Earthly Tranquility. Beyond that gate is the Imperial Garden. Both, the Palace of Heavenly Purity and the Hall of Union house other thrones. Beside the one in the Hall of Union is a beautiful water clock. Practicalities The entrance fee is CNY 60. There are tapes with an audio tour, available in about 30 languages. With witty texts and spoken by people native to the respective language, it is easy to understand and certainly worth the CHY 20 that is costs. This tape guides you through a very narrow strip of the Imperial Palace, and if you are not careful you find yourself suddenly at the back and outside the Place, and there is no way back in except buy another ticket. If you would like to explore the more hidden places, make sure you quit the tour (i.e. stop the tape) before the end. Guidebooks Order the selected books at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/forbidden.htm to get more information about the Forbidden City as well as many beautiful pictures. ************************************************************************** GUANGZHOU (CANTON) http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/guangzhou.htm In former times the foreigners were confined to their trading outpost on Shamian Island where they hung up plates stating that dogs and Chinese were not allowed on it. Nowadays, everything is Chinese and foreigners are welcome everywhere as long as they bring money. Sights Market Cantons market is an experience in itself. There is a saying about the Cantonese that they eat everything that flies, except a plane, everything that swims, except a ship and everything with four legs, except a car. So you'll be likely to find every imaginable kind of food somewhere around. If you consider buying a pet, the market is the place to get it. But do make sure you get it alive. There is a story (nobody knows if it is really true, but it's a nice story anyway.) of a British student who was thinking of buying a puppy to keep her company. After finally agreeing on a price, the Chinese selling it wanted to be nice and helpful and, to the horror of the student, started to prepare it! Liurong Temple The 'Temple of the Six Banyan Trees' was built in 537. Originally known as Baozhangyan Temple, it received its present name from the famous Song dynasty poet Su Dongpo who was strukc by the presence of six banyan trees on the temple ground. There is nine-storey pagoda. Yuexiu Park Guangzhou's largest park covers 93 hectares. It includes the Sun Yatsen Memorial Hall, the Zhenhai Tower and the Sculpture of the Five Rams. Orchid Garden This pleasant garden, constructed in 1957, shows over 100 variants of orchids. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C 13 14 18 22 26 27 28 28 27 24 20 15 F 55 57 64 71 78 81 83 83 81 75 68 59 Rain mm 152 203 254 279 381 508 457 406 330 203 152 127 in 6 8 10 11 15 20 18 16 13 8 6 5 Rainy days 8 11 14 15 19 20 16 16 13 7 6 6 Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/guangzhou.htm. Restaurants A speciality of Guangzhou are its Dim Sum, little snacks eaten whenever one feels like it. A good place to sample a wide variety is the Taotaoju (Abode of Tao Tao) restaurant. On its three (or were it four?) floors you select the Dim Sums directly from trolleys wheeled about as you are going on with your meal. On Shamian Island there are many small restaurants where you can eat well and quite cheap. ************************************************************************** GUILIN http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/guilin.htm Guilin is in the middle of one of the world's most stunning landscapes. There are innumerable hills jutting out of the flat earth at random. Sights Duxiu Peak (Solitary Beauty) Located right in the middle of Guilin, this steep pinnacle offers stunning views over Guilin and nearby Lijiang River. The top can be reached by 306 steps. Elephant Trunk Hill One of the mountains in the center of the town is aptly named 'Elephant Trunk Hill' (or just Elephant Rock). It indeed resembles an elephant with its big trunk hanging over a small part of the river. It is at the confluence of Lijinag River and Taohua (Peach Flower) River. On the northern side is a Ming dynasty built pagoda. Ludi (Reed Flute) Cave One of Guilin's main tourist spots, the Reed Flute Cave appeals perfectly to the Asian taste of kitsch. It is lit by neon lights in all possible colours. However, it is still worth a visit. There is a 500 m long trail laid out for tourists. Night Market The night market is colourful indeed and an attraction that shouldn't be missed. It can be combined with a pleasant stroll along the tree-lined bank of the Li River. Tours There are tours on the Li River to Yangshuo where you can admire the beautiful landscape. Apart from being not too cheap, these tours are very touristy and a general hassle. People on the boat are walking money bags to the local population, so the motto is: beg or sell as good as possible in the short time the money is close. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C 9 10 13 19 24 24 28 28 27 22 16 11 F 49 49 56 66 75 75 83 82 80 72 60 52 Rain mm 33 56 97 160 206 193 160 178 84 43 38 38 in 1.3 2.2 3.8 6.3 8.1 7.6 6.3 7.0 3.3 1.7 1.5 1.5 Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/guilin.htm. ************************************************************************** HAIKOU (HAINAN ISLAND) http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/haikou.htm This beautiful sub-tropical island in the South-China sea has beautiful beaches, and offers excellent swimming facilites. It makes an ideal place to relax after a cultural tour through the bustling China. Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/haikou.htm. ************************************************************************** HANGZHOU http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/hangzhou.htm Hangzhou is a pleasant town with many parks lying at the shore of the beautiful West Lake. Within the lake there are some island connected by causeways. Founded in 589, was Huangzhou one of the six old capitals of China. It was capital of the Wuyuw state from 907 until 978 and then again from 1129 and 1279 of the Southern Song dynasty. In old China Hangzhou was famous for the beauty of its women. Sights West Lake The West Lake is Hangzhou's main attraction. Covering an area of 5.6 km² (3.3 km x 2.8 km), it is beautifully surrounded by green hills. In its middle are three artificial islands, Xiaoyingzhou, Huxinting, and Yuangongdun. The largest is accessible over two bridges and a causeway crosses the lake from north to south. Longjing A short bus ride away from Hangzhou is the tea village Longjing (Dragon Well). When I was there, a nice woman was showing me the tea plantation and how she processed tea in her own house. Of course there was a higher motive to this tour: she wanted to sell me some of her tea. Since the tea was very good and fresh, and the price was ok, this was a good deal. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C 4 5 9 15 21 24 29 28 24 18 12 6 F 38 40 49 59 69 75 84 83 75 64 54 43 Rain mm 254 254 330 330 305 356 279 279 305 254 203 178 in 10 10 13 13 12 14 11 11 12 10 8 7 Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/hangzhou.htm. ************************************************************************** HEFEI http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/hefei.htm Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/hefei.htm. ************************************************************************** HEKOU http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/hekou.htm Hekou is situated at the border to Vietnam, in the south of Yunnan. Hotels The hotel just opposite the bridge at the border costs CNY 240 for a single and CNY 360 for a double room. The Hekou hotel, reached by walking to the left from the bridge and taking the first turn right, has rooms for CNY 50, 60, 100 and 150. The later have aircon and hot water. ************************************************************************** Huang Shan http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/huangshan.htm Huang Shan, the "Yellow Mountain", designates a vast area in South Anhui, covering more than 1200 m². The region consists of 72 mountains, the highest being 1860 m high. Main Mountains of Huang Shan Above-the-Clouds Peak Arhat Peak Ascending Peak Beginning to Believe Peak Bookcase Peak Boyu peak Bright Top Peak Candle Peak Celestial Capital Peak Cloud Gate Peak Cock Peak Cuiwei Peak Eyebrow Peak Fairy Capital Peak Fairy Maiden Peak Floating Mound Peak Flying Dragon Peak Flying Over Rock Frog Peak Immortal Peak Incense Burner Peak Lion Peak Lotus Peak Lotus Staments Peak Millstone Peak Nine-Dragons Peak Pagoda Peak Peach Blossom Peak Pen Rack Peak Pillow Peak Purple Cloud Peak Purple Stone Peak Red Cloud Peak Rong Cheng Peak Rose Peak Sheng Quan Peak Stalactite Peak Standing Horse Peak Stone Column Peak Stone Figure Peak Taoist Priest Peak Terraced Screen Peak The Eighteen Arhats Worshipping at South Sea The Flower Grown out of a Writing Brush Rock The Immortal Pointing the Way Threading Needle Peak Toad Peak Turtle Peak Watching Fairy Peak Wo Yun Peak Xuanyuan Peak Yunji Peak Famous pictures show Huang Shan from the top of a mountain with the valley covered in mist. At the southern end is a hot spring area. Climate Huangshan is in the northern part of the sub-tropical zone and has a mild, wet climate. Temperatures vary greatly between mountain top and valleys. Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C -3 -2 3 8 12 15 18 17 14 9 4 -1 Transport Huang Shan is connected by flight and train with all the major cities in China. There are many beautiful walks in throughout the region. There are three funiculars, to Red Cloud Peak, to White Goose Range, and to the Jade Screen Hotel. ************************************************************************** JINAN http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/jinan.htm Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/jinan.htm. ************************************************************************** JIUZHAIGOU http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/jiuzhaigou.htm This beautiful nature resort in northern Sichuan closest resembles Alpine regions with snow covered mountains, beautiful lakes and many waterfalls. There are many Tibetan settlements. The altitude is about 3000 m warranting cold nights and temperatures could drop below zero degrees. Bring along warm clothes! To make the trip, count at least five days, better a week or more. If you have more money than time, you might also consider flying with a helicopter from Chengdu. There is an entrance fee of several USD. Inside the park, cheap accommodation is available. Make sure you bargain! ************************************************************************** KASHGAR http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/kashgar.htm Long time ago the center of the silk road and an important trading point, Kashgar nowadays is a moderate center with some 120000 inhabitants. It makes an excellent starting point for trekking. The bus to Khotan is CNY 54 and can be purchased half an hour before departure of the bus. Take some water with you, this is desert land with 60 km and more without a drop of water! Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C -4 -1 8 15 21 25 27 26 21 14 5 -3 F 25 31 46 60 70 77 80 78 70 57 42 28 Rain mm 15 3 13 5 8 5 10 8 3 3 5 8 in .6 .1 .5 .2 .3 .2 .4 .3 .1 .1 .2 .3 ************************************************************************** KHOTAN http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/khotan.htm In Khotan there are still many Uigurs. It certainly is one of the more off-the-beaten track towns. ************************************************************************** KUNMING http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/kunming.htm Situated at an altitude of 1890 meters near the pleasant Lake Dian, the capital of Yunnan offers a mild climate all year round. Yunnan is the sister town of Zuerich in Switzerland. There have been nice, old buildings around the Wucheng Lu market street, but they are currently torn down. However, the market remains and is still worth a visit. Old style houses can still be seen around Dongsi Jie. Stone Forest Some way outside Kunming is the Stone Forest, a collection of stone pillars remotely resembling trees. It is a bit touristy, but if you walk past the masses of Chinese group tourists that mingle in the northern part, you will be able to enjoy a bit of what it must have been a long time ago when nobody came here. There are daily tours leaving Kunming sometime around 7 to 8 am. The bus takes about 3 hours one way. The bus costs CNY 40, and the entrance to the Stone Forest is another CNY 33. Bamboo Temple This Tang Dynasty temple is twelve km north-west of the city. The current structure is not that old, however. After burning down in the 15th century it had to be rebuilt. During a major renovation between 1833 and 1850 some 500 life-size figures. Entrance is CNY 10. There are direct busses to the temple. Climate Kunming is also called the town of eternal spring. The climate is mild all year round. Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C 10 11 14 18 19 20 20 20 18 16 13 10 F 49 52 58 64 67 67 68 68 65 60 55 50 Rain mm 8 18 28 41 127 132 196 198 97 51 56 15 in .3 .7 1.1 1.6 5.0 5.6 7.7 7.8 3.8 2.0 2.2 .6 Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/kunming.htm. Restaurants Excellent Sichuan pork is available in the Yunnan Typical Food restaurant. Between it and the Camelia hotel are several nice cafes that sell beer. The draft beer is more expensive than the bottle. The Nanlaisheng Coffee Shop at Jinbi Lu is recommended for its excellent coffee and for its real bread. ************************************************************************** LIJIANG http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/lijiang.htm Located among spectacular scenery near the border to Tibet, this city is the center of the Naxi minority. The Naxi are descendants of Tibetan nomads and until recently lived in a matriarchal society. Transportation It is possible to rent bikes for CNY 12 per day. Hotels Since the earthquake at the beginning of 1996 rooms have become very scarce, because all the hotels are under reconstruction. The Funshan still has some rooms left for CNY 170. There is hot water, but only in the evening from 7 pm to 11 pm. Restaurants Recommended are Mama Fu's and the Old Market Cafe (who does not accept Diners Card even though there are stickers.) Just opposite Mao's statue is a food stand selling excellent steamed dumplings. ************************************************************************** LUOYANG http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/luoyang.htm Founded in 1200 BC, Luoyang is one of the oldest Chinese cities. It was home to 10 dynasties, until the Jin moved their capital to Kaifeng. After being destroyed by Jurchen invaders from the north, it sunk into insignificance. Nowadays, it is a rather glum industrial center. Baima Si (White Horse Temple) 13 km north of the city is the Baima Si. It was founded after two monks sent as early as 67 to India to fetch holy scriptures returned. It is the first Buddhist temple in China, and the first translations of the Holy scripts from Sanskrit into Chinese were don here. Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/luoyang.htm. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C 0 2 8 15 21 26 28 25 21 15 8 2 F 32 35 46 58 71 80 82 79 69 59 46 35 Rain mm 13 18 18 23 51 102 178 76 25 18 15 13 in .4 .7 .7 .9 2 4 7 3 1 .7 .6 .4 ************************************************************************** NANJING http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/nanjing.htm Nanjing was the old capital in the south (hence its name which means 'South Capital'). It is one of the most beautiful cities in China, with wide tree lined avenues. Sights Ming City Wall During the Ming dynasty, Nanjing was in its prime and numerous reminders of that time can be found in and around the city. The most impressive is probably the remains of the Ming city wall. Once having measured 33 km, it was the longest city wall in the world. It took over 200'000 people to build it during 1366 - 1386. Bricks from five provinces were used and each brick has been stamped with the origin, the overseer's name and rank, the bricklayer's name, and sometimes the date. If a brick broke, it had to be replaced. The average height is 12 m and the top is about 7 m wide. Today, about 20 km is still standing. Ming City Gates Of the 13 city gates that originally gave access to the city, only some remain. The most impressive, the Zhonghua Gate in the south once garrisoned 3'000 soldiers who lived in the vaults. The northern gate, the Heping Gate is used as military barracks. Ming Palace Except for the Five Dragon Bridges, made of marble, and the Wu Men gate, nearly nothing remains. The palace was destroyed by bombardment during the Taiping rebellion. Chang Jiang (Yangtse) River Bridge When the Chinese wanted to build a bridge in the fifties, they naturally looked for help towards the Sowjet Union. But it was about the time that relations became increasingly distorted, so that China instead turned to the Americans. After some studies, they declared it impossible to build a bridge over the Chang Jiang. So the Chinese, stubborn as they were, started to build by themselves. Finally, after many years of constructions, the bridge could be opened on 23 December 1968. It is a double-decker, with a 4500 m long road on the upper floor and a 6700 m long railway below. In one of the bridgeposts is a museum, depicting this triumph of Chinese communism over American capitalism. Nanjing Museum The Nanjing Museum, although not big, houses a beautiful collection of artefacts from Neolithic times until the Communist period. There is a wonderful burial suit, made of small, rectangular jade pieces held together with silver thread. It dates from the Eastern Han Dynasty (25 - 220 AD). Taiping Museum Nanjing was the center of the Taiping rebellion. Its leader, Hong Xiquan, had built a palace, which was destroyed during the bombardement of the city in 1864. The only remaining piece is a stone boat in an ornamental lake. Tomb of Hong Wu This Ming emperor tomb lies east of the city on the southern slope of Zijin Mountain. It was built between 1381 and 1383 but was unused until the emperor died in 1398 at the age of 71. As with the Ming tombs near Beijing, the alley leading to the tomb is lined by stone statues of animals (lions, camels, elephants, horses) and officials. In the inner of two courtyard is the "Soul Tower" or "Altar Tower" which can be climbed. Behind the courtyards, the 350 m mound of Hong Wu's grave can be seen. Sun Yatsen Memorial A short way further is the memorial to the father of the modern China. A huge stairway that is 323 m long and 70 m wide leads up to the Ming style burial temple. The temple itself is divided into two chambers, the memorial ceremony chamber and the coffin chamber. There are ruomours that state that the body of Dr. Sun Yatsen is no longer in his grave, but has been carted off to Taiwan be the Guomindang. Linggu (Soul Valley) Park) Further east is the Linggu Park, host to various sights of different quality. One of the most interesting building, the Beamless Hall, is the remains of a temple that was moved from the site of Hong Wu's tomb when the emperor needed the place to build his grave in 1381. The building is made entirely of bricks with a vaulted ceiling. The Linggu Temple has a memorial hall to Xuan Zhang, a Buddhist monk that travelled to India and brought back the scriptures (which is "commemorated" in the story of the Monkey King. See section on Classics). Nearby is the Linggu Pagoda, with 60 m / 9 storeys offering a nice view over the surrounding area. It was built in the 1930s by an American architect as a memorial to Guomindang members who died in the 1926-1928 revolution. Nanjing tower is a 310 m high television tower. History The area of Nanjing has been inhabited for more than 5000 years, and many preshistoric sotes have been discovered. During the Warring States Period (475 - 221 BC), Nanjing was host to numerous battles, which came to an end when the State of Qin (221 - 207 BC) finally united the nation. From this time, Nanjing grew as the administrative and cultural centre of the region. In 220 AD, after the collapse of the Eastern Han, Nanjing became the capital of the state of Wu when the emperor moved his court here. The 6th century brough many desasters to the city, floods in 507 and 533, a great fire in 521, a pestilence in 529 and several pesant rebellions in 533, 541, 542, and 544. In 548, the army of General Hou Jing planned to overthrow the southern emperor and sacked the city, only to be victime of yet another palace intrigue. In 589, the first emperor of the Sui Dynasty, Wen Di, destroyed Nanjing nearly completely. During the Tang dynasty, it enjoyed a period of prosperity, but graudally faded into obscurity. Yet another peasant rebellion, led by Zhu Yuanzahng, restored Nanjing to its former glory as the capital. After having captured Nanjing in 1356 and Beijing in 1368 and overthrowing the Yuan Dynasty, Zhu took the name Hong Wu and established Nanjing as the new capital of the new Ming Dynasty. Huge city walls, that still can be seen, an enormous palace and other important buildings were built. The city grew to the administrative, cultural, and economic metropolis of the country. In 1420, the next Ming emperor, Yong Le, moved the capital north again to Beijing while Nanjing declined once again. In 1842, Nanjing became world famous when some 80 Brithish war ships threatened to bomb the city. The resulting "Treaty of Nanjing", the first of the "Unequal Treaties" opened several Chinese ports to the West and established the colony of Hong Kong. From 1851 until 1864, the Taiping rebellion had its centre in Nanjing. A Quing army helped by British and American forces finally managed to supress this Chinese Cristian army after heavy bombardment of Nanjing for seven months. In 1922, Dr. Sun Yatsen established the Chinese republic, first with the capital in Bejing, and later in Nanjing. The city was captured by the Japanese in 1937, and nearly exterminated the population. The real figure of dead during the "Rape of Nanjing" is unknown, but official numbers are around 300'000 to 400'000. After the defeat of the Japanese in 1945, the Guomindang moved their capital back to Nanjing and in the two following years peace talks between them and the Communists were held. Hotels Reserve your hotel online at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/china/places/nanjing.htm. Climate Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Air C 5 6 11 17 23 25 30 30 25 19 13 7 F 41 43 52 63 73 78 85 85 78 67 56 45 Rain mm 152 152 203 279 304 381 254 203 178 178 152 127 in 6 6 8 11 12 15 10 8 7 7 6 5 ************************************************************************** CHINA - Peter M. Geiser's Hotel and Travel Guide Copyright (c) 1995 - 2005, Peter M. Geiser http://www.pmgeiser.ch http://www.pmgeiser.com http://www.mineralwaters.org http://www.dussy.ch ************************************************************************** INTERNET HOTEL AND TRAVEL GUIDES New series by Peter M. 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