Archive-name: toys/misc-faq/part2
Posting-frequency: bi-weekly Last-modified: 96/06/15 Version: 16.0 URL: http://utmdacc.mda.uth.tmc.edu:5014/eric/rtm/faq.html See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge ************* ************* ** ** ************* **** **** * * ** ** * * F R E Q U E N T L Y * ** ** * * * * * A S K E D *** ************* * * * * ***Q U E S T I O N S * * * * * *** * ***** ************* *** ************ The rec.toys.misc FAQ Part 2 Volume 16 June 15, 1996 LEGAL This FAQ may be distributed or referenced in whole or in DISCLAIMER: part in any forum as long as the Author and Contributors sections remain with any portion of the FAQ that is referenced outside of the rec.toys.misc forum, and no profit is gained from the use of this FAQ in any forum. SECTION 2: FINANCIAL ASPECTS Q1: I just bought this action figure, how much is it worth? A1: In more cases than not, its worth what you paid for it. There are many figures that have their worth inflated due to false demand created by dealers, but the majority of these figures will drop in price once it becomes known that they are available in quantity and the dealer can no longer effectively absorb all available stock. Q2: What makes an action figure "rare"? A2: Very rarely is an action figure rare. If a dealer has five or ten of said action figures, then it is not truly rare, but falsely made to appear so by dealer hoarding. A rare figure cannot be determined ahead of time, it is something that collectors and dealers alike will probably not realize until the figure has come and gone. Q3: Should I pay over retail for an action figure that is "rare" because I fear I may never have another chance to get it? A3: I understand the anxiousness of wanting a new figure and the aggravation of not being able to find it. So I will tell you this, I have never bought a figure for inflated prices that I did not later see in a retail store for standard price. Patience is a virtue, and cheaper. Q4: If I am too impatient too wait until I find a "rare" figure at retail price, but I do not want to pay above retail price, what can I do? A4: You can trade one "rare" figure for another. If you run across a figure that others are looking for, yet you still cannot find the figure you are looking for, you can post a trade request and chances are someone will have what you are looking for and will want what you have found. The best and fairest of these type trades are ones where the cost, and not perceived value, are equal on both sides. And if your attempts at trading the figure are unsuccessful, you can always return it to the store for a refund, or sell it at cost so that you are reimbursed and someone can acquire a figure they are looking for. Q5: Why does a question about worth or rarity evoke such an unkindly response from rtm regulars? A5: I want to emphasize that anyone is welcome on this group to discuss toys or ask questions, but questions about worth or rarity do not always bring out the best in the group's regulars (but you'll learn we have a warped sense of humor, at least). If you do ask a question about worth or rarity, ask politely and in a well written manner to do as best you can to distinguish yourself from a dealer (dealers tend to post abrupt and sometimes illiterate queries), but take the following points (from rtmer TZ) into account before you ask a question about value, and you may be able to stay out of the line of fire: "(A) Virtually no figure released since 1985 is 'rare.' As someone else noted, two hundred and fifty MILLION Star Wars figures were produced, so even these aren't 'rare' (since so many tens of thousands still survive on mint cards). Most figures produced after 1990 should be considered, in the scheme of things 'extremely common.' (B) Any toy produced after 1993 is probably still available on the toy shelves in stores, the vast majority in large numbers (i.e. X-Men, Star Trek, Spawn, etc.). Even the figures most people label 'rare' are still produced in the hundreds of thousands: Interim Human Torch & Invisible Woman, and Phoenix, for example. (C) Realistically, most toys are worth $5-7, i.e. THE RETAIL PRICE. With a minimum amount of shopping around, you should be able to find these toys at TRU, K-Mart, Target, or whatever. (D) IF YOU WALK INTO A STORE AND SEE TEN COPIES OF A FIGURE 'YOU'RE FRIEND'S BROTHER'S SISTER'S COUSIN' TOLD YOU MIGHT BE 'WORTH SOMETHING,' YOU SHOULD PROBABLY LEAVE THEM THERE. They are most likely NOT worth very much more than retail, unless you have some supply set-up worked out with your local toy scalper. (E) Just because you see a dealer selling Professor X figures for $10 each, or even Killer Croc's for $20, doesn't mean they're 'WORTH SOMETHING.' (God, I loathe that phrase...). Likewise, because a price guide lists a relatively common figure for $15 (like Medieval Spawn repaints), doesn't mean it's automatically 'WORTH' that much. Since the guides only track the secondary market (dealer/scalpers), even if only two M. Spawns were sold at that price last month, the price is marked at $15. Meantime, 50,000 people probably bought that damn toy at retail at the local Wal-Mart. (F) Finally, as with all newsgroups, IT IS EXTREMELY IRRITATING TO MANY REGULAR READERS AND POSTERS TO HAVE BASIC QUESTIONS ASKED OVER AND OVER AND OVER AGAIN. If you want to find out how much a figure is 'worth,' try this: (1) If it's pre-1985, look in a price guide, subtract about 25% from the amount listed, and you have a 'reasonable' range of prices at which it can be sold (full guide price plus or minus 25%, with lower-end values probably more realistic.) (2) If it's post-1985, it's probably 'worth' (maximum) no more than $15 mint-on-card. If it's post 1990, it's probably worth no more than $10-15. (3) If it's post-1993, it's probably can be found at retail, and is 'worth' that, unless you pay scalper prices, at which point it is 'worth' $10-15 for a more common figure, and anywhere from $15-30 for 'hot' figures. The latter price will probably drop down to $10-15 as soon as people realize that speculator frenzy rather than an actual limited supply is driving prices up; this usually takes about 2-3 months to sink in to the denser and/or more impatient heads in the hobby. (4) REMEMBER THE VAST MAJORITY OF TOYS, NOBODY WANTS AND CAN BE HAD VERY VERY CHEAPLY IF YOU ARE A SMART SHOPPER. (5) READ THE FAQ." Q6: Is anyone interested in creating a rec.toys.marketplace A6: There has been quite a bit of discussion in past and present on forming such a newsgroup. As of yet, no actions have been taken. Q7: Are sales/auctions/trades allowed here? A7: Yes, until a marketplace is created (see Q2.6), they will be accepted on this newsgroup. Q8: How is an auction or sale usually conducted on the net? A8: From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ: "Well, the best way to do this is to observe several and watch how they are conducted and then to post on your own. Several guidelines usually serve to help things run smoothly like: 1. Make clear the currency that you wish to receive payment and the form in which you would like that money (Money order, check or credit card). 2. Post accurate descriptions of the pieces you are selling. This limits problems down the line with miscommunication based on what was being sold. 3. If you have an idea of a price that you will not sell below then post a minimum bid for the item in question. 4. Post or [preferably] mail frequent updates so that bidders know where things stand." Q9: How should I package and ship toys I'm selling or trading? A9: From Eric G. Myers (emyers@utmdacc.mda.uth.tmc.edu): "This is an important question and one that has many legitimate answers. Just keep in mind that the sender is responsible for making sure that the item(s) arrive in good condition. Much of this depends on the toy itself. The first component is a good sturdy box (Loose figures can sometimes be shipped via padded envelope without problems). I suggest NOT using the 'Priority Mail' boxes supplied at the Post Office. These have a tendency to flatten out during shipping. I suggest finding some type of box made from at least some corrugated cardboard. For larger items, boxes from liquor stores work exceptionally well (and they are free...a definite plus!). Choose a box size that will accommodate the item without having to bend, fold or otherwise damage the toy package. Next you need to consider some type of packing material. The most frequently used material is obviously newspaper. This can work effectively if you use some common sense. Since most action figures (as well as many other toys) have 'bubbles' it is important not to crush the bubble with your packing material. You want the packing material to surround the entire item without crushing it. The goal is to keep it in place and provide extra cushioning should the package end up underneath a stack of heavy boxes during shipping. Remember, you are not stuffing a turkey. Crumpling newspaper works well when used carefully. Rolling newspaper into 'logs' can also work but takes some practice to pack an item securely. The next level up from newspaper would be bubble wrap or styrofoam 'peanuts.' Each of these methods has its own ups and downs and is really a matter of preference and your own experiences. Go with what works for you. Bubble wrap can be an extra expense but does provide good protection if used in sufficient quantity. Peanuts also provide excellent protection and are usually quite cheaply available. Remember to be careful with the use of tape on the inside of the box or with packing material. Tape that is applied to a toy package may not be easily removed. Once you have the item snugly in the box, seal the box with appropriate packing tape. Regular thin Scotch tape is usually inefficient unless used in large quantities. Make sure the address is legible and written preferably in dark, block letters. Don't forget to include your own return address. If a mix up occurs with the delivery address, you want the item to come back to you rather than the dead letter office. Now you need to pick a delivery service. You have several to choose from. The standard is the United States Postal Service. Currently you may send up to two pounds via Two-Day Priority Mail for $3.00. This is usually sufficient to ship one or two action figures in a suitable box with appropriate shipping materials. Occasionally you will have to pay a little more depending on various factors including the type of item, the size of box and the type of packing materials used. The next most used service is UPS. This costs a little bit more but delivery is generally reliable. In addition, UPS insures all packages for a standard amount (you may increase this amount for a fee - [see Q2.10]). Last, but not least, there are many overnight shipping services (Federal Express, DHL, etc.) that can be used to get a package somewhere in a hurry. This is probably the least used method for shipping due to cost involved. Last but not least, its always nice to e-mail the package receiver letting him or her know that the package is in the mail. Also politely ask that they drop you a quick note letting you know when the figures arrive. With luck and good planning, you will have made a successful shipment." Q10: Should I insure packages? A10: From Eric G. Myers (emyers@utmdacc.mda.uth.tmc.edu): "There is some controversy regarding this issue. However, if the buyer wants to pay for insurance on top of all other agreed terms of your deal, by all means get the insurance requested. If you are shipping an item of exceptional value (suggestions have ranged from 25 dollars on up through 250 as minimum values for obtaining insurance...a happy medium might be 50-100 dollar value). Here are some of the controversies. First, insurance will often only cover the ACTUAL value of an item as opposed to the PERCEIVED value. What that means is that if you are shipping the latest, currently shipping but rare Spew figure (let's say Hamburger Head Angela with Specked Panties), it may only be worth what you paid for it retail. It doesn't matter that someone sent you $50 for it. For insurance purposes it will probably be worth retail price. However, there are some exceptions. If you have an appraisal of value from some reputable source, you may be able to get more back on an insurance claim. This is very difficult with currently available/shipping figures. No matter the rarity, if its currently available, its probably valued at retail price. Even with older figures, sometimes an appraisal is not acknowledged by insurance. If you have questions, contact your local postmaster. Second controversy: Insurance may only cover the toy inside the package and NOT the package itself. Many people collect MOMC [(see Q2.18)]. However, if the card or bubble is damaged in shipping and the figure is left intact, insurance may not reimburse you. Again, check with your local postmaster if you have questions. In short, insurance is a matter of choice. Know what is covered and then decide for yourself. Remember, if the package you send to someone else does not arrive or arrives damaged, netiquette states that the shipper is responsible for making amends." Q11: Is there a preferred method of creating subject lines to indicate for sale posts? A11: It would be appreciated by all readers of this newsgroup if for sale posts were posted with the "FS:" abbreviation preceding the heading. This will benefit both information seekers who are uninterested in "for sale" posts, and those looking to buy toys who do not wish to scour the newsgroup to find the posts that interest them. Q12: How should I respond to sales/auctions/trades? A12: Respond by e-mail only, do not post responses. Doing so is highly improper and discourteous to other usenet users. Q13: Should I inform this newsgroup if I see an item for sale here cheaper somewhere else, will I get flamed? A13: You may get flamed, but as long as you provide the information politely, you are in the right and are helping your fellow collectors on this newsgroup. If the seller shows his/her volatile attitude as a result of this information, you have also let everyone know that they would be better off taking their business elsewhere. Q14: What does the C-1 to C-10 scale mean? A14: From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ: "This scale is usually used to grade carded figures and boxed toys. It was designed to be more specific and quantitative than a scale based on individual terms. C-10 is absolutely mint, perfect, free of defects. C-1 is totally beat up. What goes in between is highly subjective. No matter what anyone tells you, there is no absolute meaning to this scale, and each collector uses their own relative grading. It is best to continue to buy from dealers you trust after you get a feel for their grading scale from some of their samples. When buying carded or packaged items, always ask for a description of all defects in addition to this C-1 to C-10 scale grading. Some typical defects in carded figures and boxed toys include (but are not limited to): yellowed bubble, edge wear, creasing, bends, card is not flat, bubble is crushed, bubble has ding, bubble has dent (bigger than a ding), tears on card, bubble separated from card over a small section, card colors are faded, cellophane ripped, price tag still in place, sticker tear (from removing price tag), card is punched. The prices listed in price guides for carded figures are for C-10 samples. The price drops dramatically (sometimes to about the same price as a loose mint figure) if there are significant defects." Q15: What does MIB mean? A15: From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ: "MIB = mint in box. A toy is MIB if the toy inside is mint. MIB says that the box is, well, a box. MIB says nothing about box condition, an important aspect of value." Q16: What does MIMB mean? A16: MIMB = mint in mint box. A toy is MIMB if the toy inside is mint and the box that the toy is in is in mint condition. Both the box and the toy that is inside it must be in mint condition in order to fall under this category. Q17: What does MOC mean? A17: From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ: "MOC = mint on card. This means the figure is in original unopened package. If there is any way the figure could be removed or has been removed, then it's *not* MOC. MOC says nothing about the condition of the card, which is the most important factor in the value of carded figures." Q18: What does MOMC mean? A18: MOMC = mint on mint card. This means the figure is in an original, unopened, mint condition package. Both the card and the figure inside must be in mint condition to fall under this category. Q19: If something is MIB or MOC, does that mean that the packaging, as well as the contents, are in mint condition? A19: No. If an item is being advertised as MIB or MOC, and you are concerned about the condition of the packaging, you *must* ask. Any honest seller will tell you the condition, in detail, of anything you are going to buy, unfortunately most sellers are dealers, and an "honest dealer" is a contradiction in terms (an excellent example of oxymoron for English class), so if nothing is stated specifically, ask. Q20: What does it mean when a card is punched? A20: From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ: "It means the piece of cardboard for the rack hole is missing from the card." Q21: What is the best way to store carded figures? A21: From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ: "Your best bet to avoid yellowing and other damage is to store your carded figures in comic bags with a comic backing board. Place the board behind the card inside the bag and then seal the bag with tape along the bag (taping the bag to itself). Comic boxes make convenient storage units for carded figures stored in these comic bags. Sealing carded figures in comic bags reduces damage due to light, temperature, humidity, etc." Q22: Should I let the user's of rtm know if I've been ripped off by someone dealing on this newsgroup? A22: If all available means have been taken to ensure that the person you are dealing with has not made an honest mistake, and it has been determined, if possible, that the package is not still in transit or lost by the mail facility, it is then appreciated and highly appropriate to warn readers that certain persons should not be dealt with. You could save someone else the aggravation and loss of money that may result in dealing with this person, but it is important to first take all measures to ensure that you are not wrongly ruining a person's reputation by reacting hastily. Q23: I buy toys that I like, but I'd like to think that 20 years from now they'll be worth more than I paid. How do I know if I'm buying toys that'll do that, aside from not letting kids chew on them? Isn't it worth anything to buy obscure figures that get cancelled right away? From TZ (TWZ101@psuvm.psu.edu): "There are so many toys and figures being made and saved 'mint-in- the-box' today, that virtually none of them will be worth much in 10-20 years. In fact, using experience as a guide, many will probably DECLINE in price, as much of the current inflated prices are due to speculation and new-item hype. Just look at how the price of a Bane has dropped from $30 to $10-12, with no appreciable new flood of figures on the market. Or Malebolgia from $50-70 to $20-25. Or Clown, Overtkill, and Tremor, from $50-60 to essentially retail price. Remember when Man-Bat was a $25-30 item a couple of years ago? As Mr. Mint (Al Rosen) of baseball card fame claims, anything marketed as a collectible usually ISN'T in the long term. The other things to factor in here are liquidity and relative investment potential. Toys, like all collectables, are not considered liquid investments in that it is relatively difficult to dispose of them and convert their monetary value into other forms of investment. If you own stocks, you can sell them at virtually any time you want with just a phone call; if you want to pull money out of your savings account in a bank, you can do that on short notice too. This capital liquity allows you to shift investments into the most profitable opportunities (those with the highest percent return, balanced by risk factors) on very short notice. Liquity is one important key to a good investment strategy. Collectables, including toys, are terrible investments for three reasons: (1) They have very low liquidity. If you want to sell a toy, you have to (a) find a buyer who wants the toy, and (b) settle upon a mutually agreeable price. There is no standard pricing scheme for toys, and you can't just walk into the local bank and convert them into CDs or mutual fund shares. This involves a considerable transaction cost in time & effort, reducing your ability to deploy your money into more suitable investments should the outlook for your toys' long-term profitability become bleak. Toys prices also vary widely according to time, region, and market trend, and it is entirely possible to have a roomful of toys which simply NO ONE wants to buy from you at any price. Ever try to get rid of 1980s-era baseball card sets, especially 1986-89? These are essentially unsaleable items, whose market value has dropped by 50% in then-year terms, and even more so when inflation is taken into account, in less than a decade. And you can't turn them in at the supermarket for a box of Froot Loops, either! :-) (2) To a much greater degree than "secure" investments like face- value redeemable bonds or CDs, toys can depreciate considerably with physical damage, and, as stated before the transaction cost involved in speculating on them is considerable. Toy value is highly dependent on condition, which can change if you happen to leave them where the kids, dogs, flood water, or heat damage can get at them, or if you accidentally drop your 12- back Luke Skywalker, ding the corner of the card, and cut the value by 20% in about a second and a half. Also, toys are bulky items requiring considerable storage facilities and maintenance (after all, it costs money to heat the room where they're stored, you have to pay property taxes, etc. the larger your house is, you might need a larger apartment to store them, etc.) All this severely cuts into their profitability as investments, as overall investment costs have to be taken into account, not just sale value of the items in question. And if you have particularly valuable items, you'll have to insure them, an additional cost factor that cuts into your investment return. (3) Finally, any toy produced after 1985, and perhaps even 1980, is really "new" (less than 15 years old), and not a proven long- term secure investment. In essence, ANYONE who buys a toy now with the expectation that 20 years down the line it will be worth considerably more than one paid for it (remembering to take into account inflation and transaction costs) is a SPECULATOR, and speculation is an inherently risky business proposition, with potentially high payoffs (had you bought that case of 1985 POTF figures back in '85 when you had the chance...) but also potentially high risks (anybody want some Pac Man memorabilia or Donkey Kong stickers?). Hence, for the conservative to moderate-risk investor, they must be considered investments to be avoided. The other factor to be taken into account is RELATIVE investment potential. Simply put, relative to the profitability/risk ratios of other widely available consumer investments like mutual funds, toys are a bad way to invest your money. The possibility of hitting a gold mine is far less than ending up with a money pit, and, in a worst case scenario (no one but the Salvation Army will take your old toys off your hands) you will have lost all your money. It ranks up there with derivatives and risky land speculation in terms of the potential for a financial disaster. Despite what anyone might tell you, the vast majority of toys, even "popular" ones, are virtually worthless compared to the money you COULD have made systematically deploying your financial resources in other sectors. Most comic stores make their bread and butter on sales of new books, not because they stumble across copies of Action #1 in attics every day, or even because Joe Schmoe sold them a Phoenix figure for $8 that they turn around and sell for $12 or $20. That's just simply not the way these businesses work." --Scott Gordon a.k.a. Trekker Extraordinaire-- =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= See my home page, Coalesence. Your gateway to Scott's Sliders Site, The Toy Closet, and more. ____________ _-_ ______ \__________|)____.---'---`---.____ __O_ ____/_____| || \----._________.----/ ======________/----------\ || / ,' `---' (____/--------\______ | ___||_,--' -._ SCOTT GORDON \ \ /___ 1:1 ||(- scottg10@ix.netcom.com __/____/__ `---._____-' S0628904@dominic.barry.edu {__________{ http://euclid.barry.edu/~gordon Maintainer of the rec.toys.misc FAQ =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= User Contributions: |
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