Top Document: Electrical Wiring FAQ (Part 2 of 2) Previous Document: Junction box positioning? Next Document: Noisy fluorescent fixtures, what do I do? See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge In general, one can replace fixtures freely, subject to a few caveats. First, of course, one should check the amperage rating of the circuit. If your heart is set on installing half a dozen 500 watt floodlights, you may need to run a new wire back to the panel box. But there are some more subtle constraints as well. For example, older house wiring doesn't have high-temperature insulation. The excess heat generated by a ceiling-mounted lamp can and will cause the insulation to deteriorate and crack, with obvious bad results. Some newer fixtures are specifically marked for high temperature wire only. (You may find, in fact, that your ceiling wiring already has this problem, in which case replacing any devices is a real adventure.) Other concerns include providing a suitable ground for some fluorescent fixtures, and making sure that the ceiling box and its mounting are strong enough to support the weight of a heavy chandelier or ceiling fan. You may need to install a new box specifically listed for this purpose. A 2x4 across the ceiling joists makes a good support. Metal brackets are also available that can be fished into ceilings thru the junction box hole and mounted between the joists. There are special rules for recessed light fixtures such as "pot" lamps or heat lamps. When these are installed in insulated ceilings, they can present a very substantial fire hazard. The CEC provides for the installation of pot lamps in insulated ceilings, provided that the fixture is boxed in a "coffin" (usually 8'x16"x12" - made by making a pair of joists 12" high, and covering with plywood) that doesn't have any insulation. (Yes, that's 8 *feet* long) NEC rules are somewhat less stringent. They require at least 3" clearance between the fixture and any sort of thermal insulation. The rules also say that one should not obstruct free air movement, which means that a CEC-style ``coffin'' might be worthwhile. Presumably, that's up to the local inspector. [The CEC doesn't actually mandate the coffin per-se, this seems to be an inspector requirement to make absolutely certain that the fixture can't get accidentally buried in insulation. Ie: if you have insulation blown in later.] There are now fixtures that contain integral thermal cutouts and fairly large cases that can be buried directly in insulation. They are usually limited to 75 watt bulbs, and are unfortunately, somewhat more expensive than the older types. Before you use them, you should ensure that they have explicit UL or CSA approval for such uses. Follow the installation instructions carefully; the prescribed location for the sensor can vary. There does not yet appear to be a heat lamp fixture that is approved for use in insulation. The "coffin" appears the only legal approach. User Contributions:Comment about this article, ask questions, or add new information about this topic:Top Document: Electrical Wiring FAQ (Part 2 of 2) Previous Document: Junction box positioning? Next Document: Noisy fluorescent fixtures, what do I do? Part1 - Part2 - Single Page [ Usenet FAQs | Web FAQs | Documents | RFC Index ] Send corrections/additions to the FAQ Maintainer: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Last Update March 27 2014 @ 02:11 PM
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I bought a new receptacle and installed the same. I still have no power I suspect there could be a bigger problem,this is aluminum wiring.
I've killed the breaker and call an electrician but am curious as to what happened.P.s. there is a dimmer switch on the same circuit.
I have multiple switches to lights. Ran 12/2 and 14/3 into switch box and inspector wrote correction needed.
What should I have done instead?
thank you
dennis
Ex: 15 amp-14awg. 12awg-20amp only rule for thumb other factors such as continuous load,heating and others if you do not know the safe NEC rules then please call a qualified journeyman Electrician better be safe