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Archive-name: dogs-faq/breeds/bulldogs
Posting-frequency: 30 days Last-modified: 05 Jun 1995 See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge This is a regularly posted faq and appears every thirty days in rec.pets.dogs and news.answers. The latest version of this file is a hypertext document available via the Web at http://www.io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/breeds/homepage.html The most recently posted ASCII version of this file is available via anonymous ftp to rtfm.mit.edu in the directory pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeds It is also available via email: check the weekly posting Cindy Tittle Moore (tittle@io.com) puts out entitled "Complete List of rec.pets.dogs FAQs" for details. BULLDOG FAQ The Bulldog FAQ is also available in hypertext (HTML) format at http://www.io.com/user/wilf/bulldog_l/faq.html. Check out Craig Foltz's Bully Archive at http://sculptor.as.arizona.edu/foltz/bullys/ for lots of Bulldog GIFs and JPEGs. Craig also maintains a Bulldog Homepage (at http://sculptor.as.arizona.edu/foltz/bulldogs/) with pointers to lots of good Bulldog information. [ A NOTE TO THE HUMOR IMPAIRED. BULLDOGS ARE CLOWNS. HAVING A *VERY SERIOUS* FAQ WOULD BE COUNTER TO STANDARD ACCEPTABLE LOGIC. ] TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Authors 2. General 3. Are Bulldogs for you ? 4. Good books 5. Magazines 6. Mailing List 7. A Bulldog As Pet and Companion 8. Bulldogs and Shameless Advertising 9. Cost 10. Breed Description 11. Health Issues 12. Frequently Asked Questions 13. Bulldog Rescue Organizations 1. AUTHORS 1. Wilf LeBlanc (wilf@io.com) 2. Craig Foltz (foltz@as.arizona.edu) 3. Aaron Dial (bismarck@uniblab.ocis.temple.edu) 4. Jack Segall (segalljack@aol.com) 5. Catherine Quinn (cquinn@access.digex.net) 6. Cindy Tittle Moore Direct all comments/ criticisms to wilf please. 2. GENERAL The Bulldog is a beautiful dog (see Q11, Q12) which was originally bred for Bullbaiting, and although the dog may look strange to people with no class and culture, one must keep in mind that virtually all of its physical traits were tailored for Bullbaiting. Originally, Bulldogs were most likely a cross between a Pug (which was imported from China by the Portuguese in the mid to late 16th century), and the progeny of the Alaunt/Mastiff crosses. These dogs were no doubt quite a bit different than current day Bulldogs... Todays bulldogs are not dog aggressive, or people aggressive, in general. They are about as people/dog aggressive as Golden Retrievers. They are not Pit Bulls, and although they look mean, they are not (at all). Bullbaiting (see Q6) originated in 1209 and ran out of favor (i.e. became illegal) a little before rec.pets.dogs was created, (1835). 3. ARE BULLDOGS FOR YOU? o Do you want a dog that can run for miles and miles and miles? If so, don't get a Bulldog. (Bulldogs don't jog. They waddle). However, they should go on long walks regularly like any other dogs. (See Q15). Bulldogs are not (NOT!) aggressive dogs, they are not 'performance' dogs, they are above all else 'characters' and 'clowns'. o Do you want a very obedient dog who will salute on command? If so, don't get a Bulldog. Bulldogs aren't stupid, but generally pretty stubborn and thus harder to train. Theorem: Bulldogs aren't stupid. Proof 1: Smart dogs learn what "cookie" means really fast. Bulldogs learn what "cookie" means really fast. Proof 2: At least two out of the six FAQ Makers have PhDs, so their dogs must be smart, right ? QED o If you live in a hot climate, your Bulldog might need special care in the summer. They tend to overheat in the hot weather (sometimes) and care should be given (i.e., shorter walks or walks at night). o Bulldogs are not long-lived dogs; 8 to 10 years is common. o There are lots of other breeds which may interest you. Please consult the breed FAQs at ftp://rtfm.mit.edu (in /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq), or the hypertext site at http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/dogs-faq/breeds /top.html. Wilf also maintains a set of links to various dog related sites at http://www.io.com/user/wilf/dogs/doggy_info.html. 4. GOOD BOOKS: [1]. The Book of the Bulldog, Joan McDonald Brearly 1985, TFH Publications, Inc, Ltd. 211 West Silvania Avenue, Neptune City, NJ 07753 ISBN 0-86622-027-5 [2]. The New Bulldog, Colonel Bailey Hanes MacMillan Pub Co (Howell Book House) ISBN 0876050690 5. MAGAZINES AND CLUBS [1]. Bulldog Club of America Write to: Dennis Quinn, Secretary, Bulldog Club of America, 450 Bully Hill Drive, King George, Virginia,USA 22485 The club was founded in 1890 and had been in continuous existence ever since. There are several thousand members now. For only $15 a year membership a person gets a wonderful quarterly publication full of photos and useful information. [2]. Sourmug, Write to: Sourmug, #1 Windy Ridge Mendota, MN 55150, USA Phone: 612 454 9510 Fax: 612 454 9460 $35/year CAN Sourmug usually has some pretty good articles and quite a few good pictures. 6. MAILING LIST We have a Bulldog and Bulldog cross (Bullmastiff, Bull Terrier, AmStaff, StaffBull, etc etc) mailing list. To subscribe, send a message to majordomo@io.com with "subscribe bulldogx-l your-email-address" in the body of the message (no quotes). (If you don't receive a reply, send a message to me ). 7. A BULLDOG AS PET AND COMPANION After the outlawing of Bullbaiting (1835), the Bulldog breed would have died out if not for the people who liked them for their more endearing properties. Namely, their abundant good nature which makes them excellent pets. 8. BULLDOGS AND SHAMELESS ADVERTISING Some products endorsed by Bulldogs 1. Bulldog Brand Steel Wool 2. Mack Trucks In case your in the market for a MACK truck, and have wondered who the Bulldog used in their print advertizing is, wonder no more. His name is Thunder, and he belongs to a member of the Detroit Bulldog Club. He was selected by the Ad agency from a group of eight or ten bulldogs to represent the "massive" image that Mack wants to present. At 78 pounds, he is type cast for this role. 3. Kibbles 'n Bits (Pitched by Ike the Bulldog. Apparently, Ike doesn't eat the stuff, because its waxed to keep the Kibble moist and the Bits crunchy). 4. Bulldog Canadian Lager Beer Old Canada Brewing Company, Canada Imported by Barton Beers, LTD, Chicago, IL 60603 5. Red Dog Beer A Molson product (Canada). The commercials are great ! Institutions with the Bulldog as mascot: 1. University of Geogia 2. Yale University 3. Butler University, Indianapolis, IN Butler Bulldogs! We'll sing the Butler War Song We'll give the fighting cry We'll fight the Butler battles Bulldogs ever do or die And in the glow of the vict'ry firelight Hist'ry can not deny To add a page or two For the Butler fighting crew Beneath the Hoosier sky! 4. Fresno State University 5. University of Minnesota - Duluth (UMD) 6. United States Marine Corps 9. COST Bulldogs are one of the most expensive dogs. In general, they are hard to breed and typically have to be born via Caesarean section (see Q13). Furthermore they are often lethargic breeders, needing so much human assistance that the conjugal event can often approximate a `menage a cinq.' Artificial insemination is often called for. This brings us to an oft-pondered question: "Could the breed even exist without the intervention of technology?" The answer to this has has occupied some of the best minds of the day for a microsecond or two. The answer is actually unimportant; for a dog so wonderful, no price is too much to pay. ["Whew, I'd better fill my pockets with jelly `cause I'm about to become toast!"] 10. DESCRIPTION Official Breed Standard [AKC] General Appearance Size, Proportion, Symmetry Head Neck, Topline, Body Forequarters Hindquarters Coat and Skin Color of Coat Gait Temperment Scale of Points General Appearance-- The perfect Bulldog must be of medium size and smooth coat; with heavy, thickset, low-swung body, massive short-faced head, wide shoulders and sturdy limbs. The general appearance and attitude should suggest great stability, vigor and strength. The disposition should be equitable and kind, resolute and courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific and dignified. These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and behavoir. Size, Proportion, Symmetry-- Size-- The size for mature dogs is about 50 pounds; for mature bitches about 40 pounds. Proportion-- The circumference of the skull in front of the ears should measure at least the height of the dog at the shoulders. Symmetry-- The "points" should be well distributed and bear good relation one to the other, no feature being in such prominence from either excess or lack of quality that the animal appears deformed or ill-proportioned. Influence of Sex-- In comparison of specimens of different sex, due allowance should be made in favor of the bitches, which do not bear the characteristics of the breed to the same degree of perfection and grandeur as do the dogs. Head-- Eyes and eyelids-- The eyes, seen from the front, should be situated low down in the skull, as far from the ears as possible, and their corners should be in a straight line at right angles with the stop. Thet should be quite in front of the head, as wide apart as possible, provided their outer corners are within the outline of the cheeks when viewed from the front. They should be quite round in form, of moderate size, neither sunken nor bulging and in color should be very dark. The lids should cover the white of the eyeball, when the dog is looking directly forward, and the lid should show no "haw". Ears-- The ears should be set high in the head, the front inner edge of each ear joining the outline of the skull at the top back corner of skull, so as to place them as wide apart, and as high, and as far from the eyes as possible. In size they should be small and thin. The shape termed "rose-ear" is the most desireable. The rose ear folds inward at its back lower edge, the upper front edge curving over, outward and backward, showing part of the inside of the burr. (The ears should not be carried erect or prick-eared or buttoned and should never be cropped). Skull-- The skull should be very large, and in circumference, in front of the ears, should measure at least the height of the dog at the shoulders. Viewed from the front, it should appear very high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the skull, and also very broad and square. Viewed at the side, the head should appear very high, and very short from the point of the nose to occiput. The forehead should be flat (not rounded or domed), neither too prominent not overhanging the face. Cheeks-- The cheeks should be well-rounded, protrouding sideways and outward beyond the eyes. Stop-- The temples or frontal bones should be very well defined, broad, square and high, causing a hollow or grove between the eyes. This indentation, or stop, should be both broad and deep and extend up the middle of the forehead, dividing the head vertically, being traceable to the top of the skull. Face and muzzle-- The face, measured from the front of the cheekbone to the tip of the nose, should be extremely short, the muzzle being very short, broad, turned upward and very deep from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. Nose-- The nose should be large, broad and black, its tip set back deeply between the eyes. The distance from bottom of stop, between the eyes, to the tip of the nose should be as short as possible and not exceed the length from the tip of nose to the edge of underlip. The nostrils should be wide, large and black, with a well-defined line between them. Any nose other than black is objectionable and a brown or liver-colored nose shall disqualify. Lips-- The chops or "flews" should be thick, broad, pendant and very deep, completely overhanging the lower jaw at each side. They join the underlip in front and almost or quite cover the teeth, which should be scarcely noticeable when the mouth is closed. Jaws-- The jaws should be massive, very broad, square and "undershot", the lower jaw projecting considerably in front of the upper jaw and turning up. Teeth-- The teeth should be large and strong, with the canine teeth or tusks wide apart, and the six small teeth in front, between the canines, in an even, level row. Neck, Topline, Body-- Neck-- The neck should be short, very thick, deep and strong and well arched at the back. Topline-- There should be a slight fall in the back, close behind the shoulders (its lowest part), whence the spine should rise to the loins (the top of which should be higher than the top of the shoulders), thence curving again more suddenly to the tail, forming an arch (a very distinctive feature of the breed), termed "roach back" or, more correctly, "wheel back". Body-- The brisket and body should be very capacious, with full sides, well rounded ribs and very deep from the shoulders down to its lowest part, where it joins the chest. It should be well-let-down bewteen the shoulders and forelegs, giving the dog a broad, low, short legged appearance. Chest-- The chest should be very broad, deep and full. Underline-- The body should be well-ribbed-up behind with the belly tucked up and not rotund. Back and Loin-- The back should be short and strong, very broad at the shoulders and comparitively narrow at the loins. Tail-- The tail may be either straight or "screwed" (but never curved or curly), and in any case must be short, hung low, with decided downward carriage, thick root and fine tip. If straight, the tail should be cylindrical and of uniform taper. If "screwed", the bends or kinks should be well-defined, and they may be abrupt and even knotty, but no portion of the member should be elevated above the base or root. Forequarters-- Shoulders-- Should be muscular, very heavy, widespread and slanting outward, giving stability and great power. Forelegs-- The forelegs should be short, very stout, straight and muscular, set wide apart, with well-developed calves, presenting a bowed outline, but the bones of the legs should not be curved or bandy, nor the feet brought too close together. Elbows-- The elbows should be low and stand well out and loose from the body. Feet The feet should be moderate in size, compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well-split-up, with high nuckles and very short stubby nails. The front feet may be straight or slightly out-turned. Hindquarters-- Legs--Hind legs should be strong and muscular and longer than forelegs, so as to elevate loins above shoulders. Hocks should be slightly bent and well-let-down, so as to give length and strength from loins to hock. Lower leg should be short, straight and strong, with stifles turned slightly outward and away from the body. Hocks are thereby made to approach each other, and the hind feet to turn outward. Feet-- Should be moderate in size, compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well-split-up, with high nuckles and short stubby nails. Hind feet should be pointed well-outward. Coat and Skin-- Coat-- Should be straight, short, flat, close, of fine texture, smooth and glossy. (No fringe, feather or curl). Skin-- The skin should be soft and loose, especially at the head, neck and shoulders. Wrinkles and dewlap-- The head and face should be covered with heavy wrinkles, and at the throat, from jaw to chest, there should be two loose pendulous folds, forming the dewlap. Color of Coat-- The color of coat should be uniform, pure of its kind and brilliant. The various colors found in the breed are to be preferred in the following order: 1.) red brindle; 2.) all other brindles; 3.) solid white; 4.) solid red, fawn or fallow; 5.) piebald; 6.) inferior qualities of all the foregoing. Note: A perfect piebald is preferable to a muddy brindle or defective solid color. Solid black is very undesireable, but not so objectionable if occuring to a moderate degree in piebald patches. The brindles to be perfect should have a fine, even and equal distribution of the composite colors. In brindles and solid colors a small white patch on the chest is not considered detrimental. In piebalds the color patches should be well-defined, of pure color and symmetrically distributed. Gait-- The style and carriage are peculiar, his gait being a loose-jointed, shuffling, sidewise motion, giving the characteristic "roll". The action must be, however, be unrestrained, free and vigorous. Temperment-- The disposition should be equable and kind, resolute and courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific and dignified. These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and behavior. Scale of Points GENERAL PROPERTIES Proportion and symmetry...................5 Attitude..................................3 Expression................................2 Gait......................................3 Size......................................3 Coat......................................2 Color of coat.............................4 22 HEAD Skull.....................................5 Cheeks....................................2 Stop......................................4 Eyes and eyelids..........................3 Ears......................................5 Wrinkle...................................5 Nose......................................6 Chops.....................................2 Jaws......................................5 Teeth.....................................2 39 BODY, LEGS, ETC Neck......................................3 Dewlap....................................2 Shoulders.................................5 Chest.....................................3 Ribs......................................3 Brisket...................................2 Belly.....................................2 Back......................................5 Forelegs and elbows.......................4 Hind legs.................................3 Feet......................................3 Tail......................................4 39 TOTAL..................................... 100 DISQUALIFICATION-- A brown or liver-colored nose. 11. HEALTH ISSUES Elbow Dysplasia, and Patellar Dysplasia should be screened for before breeding. Very few Bulldogs have ever been OFA rated (for hip displasia) and a good Bulldog hip is generally poorly rated by OFA. Only a tiny tiny number of Bulldogs have ever been OFA rated, and none have been considered excellent. Cherry eye (or "haw"), entropian and extropian, is common in Bulldogs and surgery may be required to fix the problem. Breeding stock should be screened. Cherry Eye is a swelling of a gland in the inner eye lid. This is usually treated by cutting the gland out depending on how often the swelling occurs. Entropian/extropian is the folding in or out of the eye lids, which bring the eyelashes in contact with the eye lense. This causes scratching, ulcers and eventually blindness. It is surgically corrected by putting a "tuck" (ask someone who sews) in the offending eye lid. Requires a delicate touch and experience not to put too much tuck and distort the look of the eye. Other popular maladies include demodectic skin mites ("mange") which appears to have a genetic basis. Births via C-section are typically required as mentioned above (see Q13). Skin allergies or "rashes" are relatively common as well. Yes, Bulldogs can be expensive dogs. If you decide to opt for a Bulldog, ensure you purchase one from a reputable breeder with a history of producing healthy dogs. Saving $100 to $500 and obtaining a poor quality dog will most likely cost you ALOT more money in the long haul. And no, not all Bulldogs have all these health problem. 12. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Q1. Are Bulldogs really the greatest dogs in the whole wide world? A1. Yes, unquestionably. Q2. Do Bulldogs wear those goofy Moose Antlers or are they above that? A2. Anything is OK _except_ moose antlers. Mooses are sacrosanct. Tutus, sunglasses, leather jackets, Georgia Bulldog T-shirts, Tuxedos, Mack Truck T-shirts, etc., etc.,... are all OK. Q3. Why are Bulldogs used so often as mascots? A3. See Q1 above. Q4. What is the difference between English (or British) Bulldogs and Bulldogs? What about the French Bulldog ?? What's this I hear about the 'Olde English Bulldogge' ? A4. There is no such thing as an English or British Bulldog. Members of the breed are simply called Bulldogs, as in _The_ Bulldog. On the French bulldog (by Jack Segall): The French Bulldog, incidentally, derived from minature or dwarf Bulldogs sent to France by the English who did not want them...this in the late 1800's... The genes for mininature still exist in the Bulldog line, and I own one who is a perfectly proportioned 30 pound dog. Before the late '50's, Bulldogs were shown at AKC shows in Under and Over 40 pound weight classes, so small dogs have been around until fairly recently. On the 'Olde English Bulldogge' (by Aaron Dial) Developed in the 1970s, the Olde English Bulldogge is a recreation of the 18th-century bulldog. The breed's creator, David Leavitt, was heavily involved with the AKC show-type Bulldog at the time, thoroughly loving the bulldog nature, but not so enamored with their breathing and breeding problems. Armed with considerable knowledge of bulldog history and canine genetics, Leavitt used a linebreeding scheme involving the present-day Bulldog, the Bullmastiff, the American Pit Bull Terrier, and American Bulldogs. Though the "Oldie's" bloodlines are strongly steeped in combat stock, Leavitt deemed aggressiveness a fault. He sought instead to recreate the original bulldog's tenacity, fierce appearance, power, and athleticism, but in the guise of an over-all friendly fellow. Considered intelligent, clownish, and loyal, the Olde English Bulldogges are quickly going "over the top," and are increasingly present at rare breed shows all over the North America. Dogs should weigh at least 60 lbs. and stand at least 19" at the withers. Bitches should weigh at least 50 lbs and stand 17" tall. The moderately wrinkled head is large in proportion to the body with the skull deeply sunken between the eyes, extending up the forehead. The muzzle is short (though not as short as the AKC Bulldog) and broad. The coat is short, close, and medium fine. Acceptable colors are the brindles (red, grey, or black), solid white, fawn, red, or black. For more information, or breeder referrals, on the Olde English Bulldogges, contact Standing Stones Olde English Bulldogges in the US at (203) 379-0378. Q5. OK, OK, then what is the difference between the American Bulldog and the Bulldog? A5. Well, (and maybe a AB aficianado can help me here), ABs were bred for Big Game Hunting and they use a little more force to bring their (smaller) prey down. (See also Q6 below). [From Aaron Dial, with a little editing by wilf]: The AB (indigenous to the sourthern US) was bred as a farm guardian to protect livestock. It resembles the basic bulldog description (wide chest, big head, etc.) but a good working AB should weigh 90 lbs (according to the boar hunters, ABs much more than 100 lbs are too slow), and its muzzle should be a bit longer than the Bulldog's for hot-weather work. Its bite should be undershot to maintain a hold, as fiercer prey can do considerable damage given the opportunity. A scissor bite would not be suitable. An athletic AB is quite popular for boar hunting, a sport that has taken the lives of many good dogs. However, a good AB is something to behold in this bloody endeavor, which is why they are emerging as the dog of choice for the task. There is great argument within the fancy just now as to what direction the breed should take, i.e. athleticism versus bigger is better and biggest is best. [All hunting flames cheerfully forwarded to rec.hunting]. [Again, the American Bulldog is more of a 'performance' dog, whereas the Bulldog is more of a couch potato]. Q6. How did those relatively small Bulldogs of bygone days bring down Bulls. Were Bulls smaller back then or were Bulldogs bigger? A6. Some people think Bulldogs were bigger (95 lb range) and some think they were about the same size as today's variety. However, Bulldogs were more like a flea on a bull's nose than a massive dog which would fight with the bulls. They would grab onto the bull's nose and hold on until the bull was so tired it couldn't fight anymore. It must be remembered that although Bulldogs may look strange to some, everything about them (their short stature to avoid being `hooked' by the bull, their short snout to allow them to breathe while holding on to the bull, etc.) was bred for bullbaiting. The dogs didn't always win. The bull was also restrained by a tether (with a rope about its neck, approximately 4 or 5 yards long). Q6.1 Why are their faces all wrinkly? A6.1 So the bull's blood would flow down the Bulldog's face, under its chin and down, rather than into the dog's eyes. Their noses are tipped back so they can still breath while keeping ahold of their mouthful. Doesn't conjure up a pretty mental picture, does it? Q6.2 Why do they have such a short jaw? A6.2 Easier to hold on, and not let go. Q6.3 Why is all their weight near their head? A6.3 So when the Bull shakes it would be less likely that the dog's back would be broken. In physical terms, this moves the center of gravity nearer the axis of rotation in order to minimize the angular moment of inertia... Q6.4 I heard that they have jaws that lock, is this true? A6.4 No. They are just very strong, and stubborn (tenacious), and if they don't want to let go, they won't. Q6.5 Were only Bulldogs used for this sport? A6.5 No, originally the forerunners to the Bulldog were used along with Mastiffs and Bull Terriers. Bull Terriers and Mastiffs were considered too large and slow in the ring. Q6.6 Were animals other than Bulls `baited?' A6.6 Yes. Bears, badgers, and even monkeys were occasionally the first-round draft choices of the blood sport promoters. Q6.7 This is disgusting. This was sport? A6.7 Yes and yes. But remember that the fighting "rings" were the forerunners of the show "rings". Not that this makes it any better. [In fact, it kinda smacks of kickboxing, a sport not without promoters today...] Q6.8 So I bet a Bulldog would be a good hunter, no ? A6.8 HAHAAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHHAHAHAAHAHAA !!!!!! Sure, they are quite capable at hunting dust bunnies, but that's about it. Q7. Wow, they must be mean little dogs! A7. No. Most, if not all, the fighting spirit has been bred out. They are still pretty stubborn in general, but very loveable. (To quote the Book of the Bulldog, "They won't start very many fights, but they may finish a few"). Generally, they have a lot of patience, and they are very tough. This is why they are good with kids; they can take reams of abuse. They tend to be meatheads, and might harm a child by accident, so supervision is still recommended. They even have a reputation of being particularly good with cats [Craig: My Bulldog pup has established a particularly good relationship with my marmalade tabby Duncan, the King Kong of the feline world. Wilf: Yeah, my bulldog *loves* my cat and my cat (an old grumpy 11 year old) even likes my bulldog!!] Q8. Are Bulldogs the same as "Pit Bulls" ? A8. No. Although it is often unclear what people mean when they say "Pit Bull". They could mean American Pit Bull Terrier, or just a dog which was originally bred for pit fighting (and has bulldog-X blood) or most likely they really don't know what they are talking about. The press usually defines "Pit Bull" as a dog that bites. Terriers and Bulldogs were crossed to yield the Bull and Terrier which then led to the Bull Terrier and the so-called "Pit Bull". (Well, even this is debatable. Some people believe there is no Terrier in the American Pit Bull Terrier. Some people believe that the Pit Bull is closer in looks and character to the original Bull baiting dog. The general feeling of most Bulldog lovers is a cheery "who cares" ?) Bulldogs were used for pit fighting (historically) but any aggressive nature (or gameness) has been (in general) bred out. They are still stubborn, singleminded and rather impervious to pain. Bulldogs, in general, are much less hyper than, say, an AmStaff or a American Pitbull Terrier, shorter, and stockier. Again, Bulldogs are not performance dogs, they are *clowns*. And no, not all "Pit Bull" type dogs eat people just for fun. Pit Bulls were bred for fighting other dogs, not for eating people. A fighting dog cannot be aggressive to humans, since handlers must break up the fight. In other words, a well bred Pit Bull is not aggressive to humans (and as such, a Pit Bull doesn't even make a great guard dog). However, as with any dog (which has the size and strength to do damage), a combination of poor genetics, poor breeding, bad owners, and a little bad luck can lead to a problem dog. (And of course, media hype plays a roll in this as well). So make sure you do your research and find a good breeder with a good history of producing good dogs !! Q9. Will a Bulldog make a good guard dog? A9. No. They *like* people. Like most dogs, one might protect you if you were in trouble, but it is unlikely. However, most people are terrified of Bulldogs, so this is (sometimes) protection enough. [One can use this as a convenient barometer of good taste -- those terrified by Bulldogs are Philistines] Whether or not *any* dog should be used for guarding is good flamebait. Q10. Are they barkers? A10. No, they are very quiet in general. They do snore, belch and can be flatulent, so they tend to be noisy in other ways. Some people think this is comforting. Well, at least two people do because my SO does and I do. The contented snore of the Bulldog by my bed is the best lullaby that I can imagine. Q11. Why are they soooooooo beeeee-aaaaaa-uuuuuutiful? A11. Another imponderable...no one is sure why they are so stunning, they just are. Q12. What do I do if I do all my research, buy a Bulldog and people persist in saying that "he/she is so U-G-L-Y he is cute" moronic phrase about my lovely dog? A12. Inform me. I will deal with them (wilf@io.com) or utter some sage and witty repartee like "So's your momma!". Q13. Why are they often born by Caesarean section? A13. As a breed, they have large heads and small hips and therefore small birth canals. Well, that's the commonly held belief which is probably just a myth. Here are some other reasons for C-sections: Bulldog Bitches, due to their high tolerance for pain, often ignore nature's signals to "Push" the puppies out. Any dog can take a long time to deliver an entire litter of puppies. An hour or more between pups is not unusual, and if the litter is large, the delivery time can last 8 or more hours. Bulldogs will just forget it, and go to sleep. Secondly, Bulldogs have a higher than normal record of producing "Anasarca" puppies. These are fetuses that do not drain fluid in a normal manner, and end up as water-filled puppies, often weighing two to three times what a normal pup weighs. They are so large that they will not fit through the pelvic opening in the birth canal. If this is one of the first puppies in line to be delivered, none behind it will get out. Until the availablility of ultra sound, there was no way of predicting if the bitch had one of these in-side her. Even with ultrasound, it is difficult. A number of years ago, U of Michigan conducted a study trying to determine what caused this problem (it also happens with human babies). Ultra sound was used to try to determine when the water problem developed during the gestation period. No predictable patterns were discerned. The problem seemed to be related to a zero thyroid function in the fetus. Generally, these pups do not live more than a few minutes, even born through C-Sections. So the C-Section is routinely used to avoid having to do one on an emergency basis, whether due to an Anasarca pup, or just to make sure that all have been delivered naturally... how do you know how many are there? The high value of a bulldog puppy makes it cost effective to do the C-section rather than risk loosing even one puppy. Anasarca may be hereditary, but after several years of study supported by the Morris Animal Foundation, so familial connects were found. Repeat breedings of the same sire and dam did not produce Anasarca puppies. Here are some arguments against C-sections: Not accepting the puppies is the down side of C-sections. The mothers internal hormones are not yet in action, and she doesn't know that she has had puppies. Sometimes there may be near disasters in the first 48 hours. A hormone shot can be given that brings the milk in and starts the maternal instinct going. The length of time between birth and acceptance depends on when, in the gestation period the C-section was performed. As you can see, discussing whether or not it is right or wrong to breed dogs which are often born in this manner is good flame bait. Q14. What's this Sourmug stuff all about? A14. Well, Sourmug is just the name that is sometimes used to explain the look on a Bulldogs face. The enlightened Bulldog owner prefers to think of it as a look of contentment. Q15. Why are they always fat? A15. They shouldn't be. As is the case with any dog, regular exercise and a proper diet will control any weight problems in Bulldogs. However, they are *very* solid dogs. Their build is very wide and not very tall. So even though they might look fat, they are just stocky. (Also, like any dog, you should be able to feel the ribs easily, but not able to see the ribs). Excess weight puts undue strain on the heart and joints. Remember, the AKC breed standard says: "The general appearance should suggest great stability, vigor and strength". However, the AKC breed standard also says: "the size for mature dogs is about 50 pounds; for mature bitches about 40 pounds", and this is routinely ignored. Q16. Do they shed alot? A16. Well, they do have a short coat but they are *not* a non- shedding dog. Q17. Why are Bulldog aficianados so wierd? A17. I dunno; it must be in our genes... Q18. How come their tails are so short, are they cropped? A18. No. They are not cropped, they just have short tails. The tails come in essentially two varieties: spiked or screwed [Craig: I could come up with a very off-color remark here if given a minute or so, but given the readership of rpd, it may not be much appreciated]. Following by Jack Segall: The tail can be almost any size and shape, as long as all of it is stays below the base of tail. In breeding, a screw tail will usually be dominant, that is, both parents must have straight tails to get one. In judging a bulldog, the tail is worth about 2% of the score, and this includes not only its shape, but its placement on the back. Its base should be low on the down side of the rump curvature. Most tails do not need any special care. Occasionally, the root of a screw tail will be buried deep inside the dog - a finger inserted next to these tails will go in to about the first knuckle joint. These tails can become infected, particularly if they get wet from swimming or bathing in water that covers the dog. Such an infected tail usually has a strong odor, and may be red and sore to the touch. You may notice the dog scooting around on its rear trying to scratch this area. (Impossible for a bulldog to do!) Treating the infection requires daily packing of an antiseptic powder deep into the tail cavity. This may take several weeks to be effective. In rare cases, the infection may not be curable, and the tail has to be removed. This is not a simple procedure, although it would appear to be. The removal must be done at the base of the tail, which is attached to the spine. As this area in already infected, the risk of transferring this into the spinal column is great. After surgery, the same sort of antiseptic packing is done. Over the years, out of about 40 dogs that we have owned, 4 or 5 have had these deep set tails, three have become infected, and one of these required amputation. Q19. Did they always have such big heads and were built so low to the ground? A19. No. Very likely not. But the breed standard says large head and low to the ground. So bigger is better and lower is better. This too is good flame bait. Q20. What is a "Rose Ear" ?? A20. Following by Jack Segall: The ears are supposed to have a "Rose" shape, and to help the cartilige form into this pattern, the ears are [sometimes] glued into the proper shape. We use a surgical glue, for colostomy bags, made by Duo Adhesive. If you do not know what a Rose Ear is supposed to look like, have someone who does know look at the dog. If the ears are already rosed, there is no need to glue them. If the ears kind of hang like a hound dog, called a button ear in bulldogs, then they should be shaped. Five months is about the limit on doing this. If you figure out what the ear should look like, glue all parts that fold together touching another part of the ear to hold the ear in the proper shape. The glue will stay on for a week or so, and can be rubbed off like rubber cement Make sure that it is SURGICAL adhesive, not the stuff used for false eyelashes. Our local drug store has to order the stuff for us, which usually takes a day. Q21. What special grooming is required ? A21. Not much, really. For a Bulldog of light coloring, sometimes tear stains might develop in the folds of the skin on the face. First, the source of the tearing should be determined. Some is normal, but an "entropian", where the eye lid has turned inward, and eyelashes are rubbing the eyeball will cause excessive tears. This will also cause eye ulcers and loss of sight. The surgical correction is minor, if this is what is happening. As the dog's head grows, this condition may re-occur, particularly if the face is heavily wrinkled. Cleaning the area with peroxide should help ward of any infection (which rarely occurs anyway), and a little DESITIN baby ointment will act as barrier between the tears and fur to prevent staining. USE VERY LITTLE, as it can rub off on to the furniture and clothing and is in and of itself a "stain maker". Putting a little vaseline on your Bulldogs nose from time to time is also a good idea. Sometimes there noses get dry, and putting a little vaseline (or even some vitamin E oil) on it every day or so will help keep it moist. Q22. What is "the mange" ? A22. Mange is something that almost all dogs carry in their blood system. It usually expresses itself early in life, sometimes associated with stress. It is not contagious, and goes away if treated early before the lesions cover large portions of the body. Usually dogs that have it, only show signs once. Mange can be lethal, if you think your Bulldog has mange, TAKE IT TO THE VET. For relief, dogs can be dipped in a solution of Mitaban. Your vet can handle the treatments or you can do it yourself. They will usually lose all their hair in the infected parts, although it doesn't take too long for the hair to grow back. If more than 50% of the dog is infected it can be fatal, so early diagnosis and treatment is important. Q23. What is this I hear about lemons ? A23. Sometimes in the heat your Bulldog might overheat, especially during exercise. Squirting lemon juice will tend to cut the "slime" and your dog will be able to breath easier. 13. BULLDOG RESCUE ORGANIZATIONS DIVISION II, IN,IL,KY,MI,OH,WV,WI, Sharon Zakar, 513-696-2657 DIVISION III, AZ,CA,HI,NV, Lynda Pelovsky, 510-483-8433 DIVISION V, AK,ID,MT,OR,WA, Kristine Metzger, 503-726-1007 South West Oregon Bulldog Club AZ, Lynn Tunis, 602-888-0675 AR, Hot Springs, Garland County, Russellville, Arkadelphia, Searcy, Fort Smith, Sharon L. Britton, 501-525-4332 B.C., Bonnie Wasnock, Home 604-534-6856, Work 800-663-1425 CA, DIVISION III, Lynda Pelovsky, 510-483-8433 CA, Bulldog Club of Greater San Diego Betty Fisher, 619-588-6491 Abby Zubov, 619-441-0802 Marcie Dobkin, 619-748-8848 CA, Lake Elsinore, Riverside, San Bernadino, San Diego, Orange & L.A. Conuties, Nancy Harrison, 909-928-1440 Carolyn Whiteside, 909-674-0579 CA, Mother Lode Bulldog Club of Sacramento Patti Rungo, 916-966-4012 Bridgette Higginbotham, 916-273-9123 Ann McIntosh, 916-966-3388 Ann Chiorino, 916-663-2892 Mary Brunk, 916-933-5724 CA, Northern CA, Bulldog Club of Northern California Pat Ropp, 408-356-0039 Bob & Betty Hatton, 415-323-0980 CA, Pacific Coast Bulldog Club Fran Crumely, 714-532-2113 CO, Colorado Springs, Rita Morrou, 719-578-9427 CO, Denver, 100 mile radius, Bulldog Club of Denver Sandy Coffman, 303-979-6460 CT, Billy & Karen White, 203-269-9030, Work 203-562-4107 CT, Barbara Manigini, 203-281-1409 FL, Diane Albers, 407-322-8980 FL, Tampa Bay Bulldog Club, Jim Lovett, 813-685-7667 FL, Steward L. Wagner, 813-355-5705, Work 813-746-4999, ext.333 FL, Sun Coast Bulldog Fanciers Network, Larry Fagan, 813-921-3320 HI, Tina Sugimoto, 808-826-9673 IA, Bulldog Club of Iowa, Linda Shelburg, 515-225-8743 IA, northwest, Barry J. Meyer, 712-732-4079 IL, Chicago Bulldog Club, Judy Johannsen, 309-764-0243 Janet Hospodar, 708-683-2553 Kathy Bergstrom, 815-389-2282 IL, Illiana Bulldog Club, Maura Teresko, 616-426-3930 IN,IL,KY,MI,OH,WV,WI, BCA, Division II Phillip Douglas, 317-896-9012 IN, Bulldog Club of Indiana, Teresa Gabbard, 317-539-5289 KS, Greater Kansas City & St. Joseph, MO Heart of America Bulldog Club, Pat Sullivan, 913-829-2305 Heart of America Bulldog Club, Beverly Larrick, 913-829-3737 KS, Chelsea Brown, 316-343-6067 KY, Kentuckiana Bulldog Club, Sheila Lutring, 812-634-1656 MA, New England, Kathy Bernardi, 508-386-5541 MA, New England, Diane Condon 508-869-2981 MA, New England, Part Garrity 508-842-8848 MA, eastern MA to Worchester & CT, Dona Marcham, 617-335-2809 MA, Gertrude Freedman, 508-887-5101 MD, Bulldog Rescue and Education Service, Inc. Kimberly Hood, 410-633-7814 MD, Baltimore area, O'Neil Wagner, 410-679-3333 ME, Bulldog Club of Maine, Irene Head, 603-332-3306 ME, Miriam Lundeen, 207-989-6791 ME, Nancy Christensen MI, Detroit Bulldog Club, George Cromer, 313-352-3707 MN, Saint Paul - Minneapolis Bulldog Club Marcia Tiegs, 612-445-6836 MO, Greater Kansas City & St. Joseph, Heart of America Bulldog Club, Pat Sullivan, 913-829-2305 Heart of America Bulldog Club, Beverly Larrick, 913-829-3737 NV, Anne Murray, 702-677-0513 NV, South Nevada Bulldog Rescue, Lee Kinley, 702-451-2331 NH, ME, MA, Bulldog Club of Maine, Irene Head, 603-332-3306 NH, Ray & Deborah Turner, 603-742-3104 NJ, Rosemarie Strucke, 908-577-0514 NJ, CT, NY, PA, Gary Abalsamo, 201-798-7420 NJ, Monmouth & Ocean Counties, Robert & Ann Howd, 908-681-0355 NJ, Paul Jecas, 908-846-7699 NM, Nancy Morrison, 505-434-8226 NY, Long Island Bulldog Club, Linda Fiordiliso, 516-798-4964 NY, Long Island Bulldog Club, Marlene Hall, 516-694-3776 NY, Jane Rosenblum, 212-677-3050 NY, Sheila & Frank Balik, 716-359-9901 NC, Susan Luck Hooks, 704-375-4307 NC, David Helms, 704-624-5860 NC, Marianne Snellen, 704-233-5674 OH, Dayton, Cincinnati and N. KY Buckeye Bulldog Club, Elizabeth Harshbarger, 513-278-4108 OH, Amy Hankinson OH, Cincinnati Bulldog Club, John Zakar, 513-696-2657 OH, Bulldog Club of Greater Cleveland Jerry Watkins, 216-362-6330 OH, Toledo Bulldog Club, Nancy Paul, 419-822-5074 OK, Greater Tulsa Bulldog Club, Dina Foster, 918-241-1402 OR, DIVISION V, South West Oregon Bulldog Club Kristine Metzger, 503-726-1007 OR, Portland, Hillsboro, Oregon City, Gresham Oregon State Bulldog Club, Dianne K. Croan, 503-761-0841 OR, Sheila Dunn, 503-746-3335 PA, Deb Street, 717-993-6332 PA, Donna Callahan SC, Sylvia Arrowwood, 803-899-7460 TN, Music City Bulldog Club of Nashville Nancy Boniface, 615-459-5411 TX, Austin Bulldog Club, Mike Menasco, 512-282-3423 TX, Elsie Panico, 409-894-2176 TX, East Texas, Bonnie Stansell, 903-687-2464 TX, Bulldog Club of Longview Texas,Essie Massingill, 903-842-3741 TX, Ft. Worth Bulldog Club, Laura Fletcher, 817-280-0735 TX, Ft. Worth Bulldog Club, Ellen Pierson, 817-485-9054 TX, Houston, Southeast Texas, Bulldog Club of Texas Greg & Tina Byers, 713-997-2253 TX, North TX, Lone Star Bulldog Club, Dixie Little, 214-298-7430 TX, South Texas, San Antonio Bulldog Club Diana & Jim Young, 210-340-0055 or 800-594-4289 TX, South Texas, Dyanne Welch, 512-439-7279 TX, West Texas, Joanna Smith, 915-520-4714 VA, Pat Butcher, 804-467-2609 VA, Robert & Mary French Hall, 804-721-7334 VA, Bobbie Sandvig, 804-288-3684 WA, northern, Bonnie Wasnock, home 604-534-6856, wk 800-663-1425 WA, Hazel Saari, 206-695-3631 WI, Division II, Ray Knudson, 414-537-2774 WI, Milwaukee Bulldog Club, Adair Templin, 414-332-9095 WI, Maxine Krengel, 608-244-2336 WV, Kyle Fisher, 304-525-3614 If you are doing bulldog rescue and you want to be on future updates of this list, please send the following information to: Diana and Jim Young National Coordinators of Bulldog Rescue 7508 Marbach Road San Antonio, Texas 78227 210-340-0055 (or area code 512 ?) Rescue volunteer's name Phone Area in which you rescue Name of local bulldog club or other organization with which you are associated, if any. _________________________________________________________________ Wilfrid P. LeBlanc / wilf@io.com _________________________________________________________________ User Contributions:
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